Can I shim the harmonic balancer

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jawbone

Cuda_queer
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Question? Would anyone have any concern with placing a 1/16 or 1/8 shim in front of crank oil slinger prior to install of damper. This of coarse lessens the amount of damper surface area on crankshaft. I need to move damper away from timing scale. Alternatives 1) purchase different damper 2) install 273 timing cover with bolt on timing scale which will be on passenger side in lieu of drivers. This will also require me to purchase cast iron water pump. Thoughts?
 
Has the out ring of the balancer slipped? Otherwise, why is it so close to the timing cover that you need to shim it?
 
What's wrong is I purchased an ATI damper and the guy on the other end of the phone failed to read me the small print. The edge of the damper is in contact with timing tab so I can either grind it down or shim the damper out. Were only talking 1/16" to clear the tab but need to account for gasket as well of which am waiting for delivery. If I shim out 1/8" my pulley issue with water pump would be corrected.
 
why not grind the timing pointer marks off of the timing cover and engrave/grind/file shallow slots to reinstate them. that way they're still present but 'in' instead of 'out'. should be easy enough to do while the damper is off too.
neil.
 
What's wrong is I purchased an ATI damper and the guy on the other end of the phone failed to read me the small print. The edge of the damper is in contact with timing tab so I can either grind it down or shim the damper out. Were only talking 1/16" to clear the tab but need to account for gasket as well of which am waiting for delivery. If I shim out 1/8" my pulley issue with water pump would be corrected.

If you can make a accurate shim that has the proper bore diameter and with both sides parallel then it'll be fine.. If your shim doesn't make full contact with both the crank gear and the balancer I wouldn't do it...
 
If you can make a accurate shim that has the proper bore diameter and with both sides parallel then it'll be fine.. If your shim doesn't make full contact with both the crank gear and the balancer I wouldn't do it...
but if you shim the balancer the crank' pulley will then be further forward so all the other pulleys will then need shimming forward too.
 
but if you shim the balancer the crank' pulley will then be further forward so all the other pulleys will then need shimming forward too.

True, If they are properly aligned now... But allot of aftermarket performance dampers seem to not worry much about where the factory placed their pulley mounting surface... And the O/P already mentioned that was the case here.. He said.... "If I shim out 1/8" my pulley issue with water pump would be corrected."
 
True, If they are properly aligned now... But allot of aftermarket performance dampers seem to not worry much about where the factory placed their pulley mounting surface... And the O/P already mentioned that was the case here.. He said.... "If I shim out 1/8" my pulley issue with water pump would be corrected."
That is correct. Would kill two birds with one stone.
 
If you can make a accurate shim that has the proper bore diameter and with both sides parallel then it'll be fine.. If your shim doesn't make full contact with both the crank gear and the balancer I wouldn't do it...
I ordered a set of arbor shims. Though I don't know specifics, the pack came with multiple widths and are used specifically for shimming. My only issue is the inside diameter is 1-1/2" The snout has a ever so slightly larger diameter so will require opening up ID slightly.
 
how 'correct' is the alternator pulley currently? and the p/s if fitted? all the belt driven ancillaries need checking, but the good thing with both of those is they can be spaced forward with their brackets if needs be. if it'd correct the water pump alignment as you say i'd do it.
neil.
 
how 'correct' is the alternator pulley currently? and the p/s if fitted? all the belt driven ancillaries need checking, but the good thing with both of those is they can be spaced forward with their brackets if needs be. if it'd correct the water pump alignment as you say i'd do it.
neil.
Funny you should bring up the alternator. That's a missing piece of the puzzle. Cannot decide to keep the existing single field or upgrade to dual field round so have not purchased one yet. Thus know nothing regarding alignment issues yet. p/s don't have. Thought a sanding flapper wheel would work to enlarge my arbor shim. Looked at pinion shims but no specifics were listed. Might be able to get details over the phone.
 
ATI makes shims for just that reason, and I have used the shims before. I usually have a couple around, but my buddy borrowed some for his last build
 
Send that bullshit POS incorrectly made balancer back and get one that's correct.
 
I ordered a set of arbor shims. Though I don't know specifics, the pack came with multiple widths and are used specifically for shimming. My only issue is the inside diameter is 1-1/2" The snout has a ever so slightly larger diameter so will require opening up ID slightly.
I've seen pulley shims for Mopars on Flea Bay. Rick E stuff.. that said, what if you trimmed the timing tab, but shimmed the pulley? That way the damper could Fully Seat on the crank snout...more of a pain, but seems like a more Solid Solution. Especially on a Mopar! Cause we like to Floor Em!
 
ATI makes shims for just that reason, and I have used the shims before. I usually have a couple around, but my buddy borrowed some for his last build
Will contact ATI again. Spoke with the wrong guy I guess.
 
I've seen pulley shims for Mopars on Flea Bay. Rick E stuff.. that said, what if you trimmed the timing tab, but shimmed the pulley? That way the damper could Fully Seat on the crank snout...more of a pain, but seems like a more Solid Solution. Especially on a Mopar! Cause we like to Floor Em!
This is the path I am trying to take. I agree with you. Will not take too much grinding for tab to clear. Just hate to do it to a nice timing chain cover. Mancini has .125 pulley shim. I'm piece milling this thing together. On obstacle after another. Think I will rob alternator of /6 to test alternator alignment.
 
This is the path I am trying to take. I agree with you. Will not take too much grinding for tab to clear. Just hate to do it to a nice timing chain cover. Mancini has .125 pulley shim. I'm piece milling this thing together. On obstacle after another. Think I will rob alternator of /6 to test alternator alignment.
Why not get the correct balancer and sell the one that is incorrect for your combination?
 
Why not get the correct balancer and sell the one that is incorrect for your combination?
Hi Mike. It's easier to spend money and time on shim or possibly grinding tab than it is on new damper. This motor has been pretty pricy. Having other shop related expenses that are rather high. Transmission is at Brewers getting rebuilt. AVS carb is getting restored. Had to buy fence. It's adding up quick. Bellhousing I have but not the clutch or pressure plate. 8 3/4 diff needs restoring with brakes. etc.etc.etc.....
 
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