What budget torque converter?

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60Powerwagon

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My converter has not acted right since I got my car. It won’t allow it to idle in gear without some help from the throttle. I’m looking at a Hughes 24-25, but also want to get the best bang for my dollar. Probably going to swap the cam to a voodoo 268 while the motor is out. I’m trying to stay under $400 and the car is street driven. 360 with a 727. Any other suggestions before I purchase?
 
Gear, tire size, weight, details on engine build and what converter is currently installed?
Currently 3.23’s factory weight(around 3400 I think), current tire is a 225 but going to a 12.50 soon, stock converter I think, 360 bored .060 over with roller lifters and rpm air gap manifold and headers. I know the gear is a bit tall, but I also need to have decent rpm’s on the highway. May go to 3.55 or 3.73 when I put the bigger tires on.
 
Under 400? A good TQ con is one of the best upgrades. Alot of guys here use the Turbo
Action 3500 tight. But I think that's too much for your combo.
Have you looked at the Summit ones? 22-2400 seems ok. I don't have the cam grinders specs.
 
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If you shop based on your criteria of price under 400 bucks, just go ahead and get the most rock bottom "reman" converter you can lay your hands on, because it will not be a good one. Do a search. There are literally hundreds of threads on this.
 
I think a dynamic we ran in my son's Duster was 750ish. Spend the money. You will only regret getting an "econoverter"
 
The single WORST performance part I have EVER bought, in forty years of trying to go fast..... was a cheap converter. (GER, long since out of business).
 
I would determine most common fwy rpm, and try for a converter about 200 rpm less. It will not be slipping at freeway rpm.
It will go much quicker with a tc stall at peak torque... but you would probably have to change rear gear.
Compromise is somewhere in between.
I would expect to pay at least $600 for a good converter today.
Check out Hughes converter videos on you tube. #5 on stall speed is particularly good/informative.
 
What cam, compression, and intake?

Don't know cam grind, but definitely quite a bit of overlap, 10.2 pistons, old 340 Torker. RVMB w/o 1st gear lowland apply. Worked OK with the 3.23s I had been running, but the switch to 4.30s really made my combo work well together. Maybe not the ideal steert combo by some folks standards, but I couldn't be happier with it's street manners given my driving habits.

Be well,
Pat
 
(GER, long since out of business)
George E. Reynolds' legacy lives on forevermore in a scrapheap of useless parts, destroyed transmissions, and internet infamy and notoriety! I'm surprised Boss Hog Converters is still with us...
"The first rule with automatic transmissions is that there are no good cheap torque converters." Herb McCandless
 
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Don't know cam grind, but definitely quite a bit of overlap, 10.2 pistons, old 340 Torker. RVMB w/o 1st gear lowland apply. Worked OK with the 3.23s I had been running, but the switch to 4.30s really made my combo work well together. Maybe not the ideal steert combo by some folks standards, but I couldn't be happier with it's street manners given my driving habits.

Be well,
Pat
How many RPM is the Hugh's 3500 RPM converter cruising at and what does it flash at with that?
 
A good tight small (physically) converter is SO much better than a big (cheap) sloppy one that someone loosened up so it would have some stall speed.
Unfortunately, good tight small converters are NOT cheap.
 
I put a Ptc 9.5 street/strip in my Duster. $575. Was $650 with shipping to my door. Worth every penny. Mild 318 ,904, 3.23 gear. Flashes to 3500. Drives good and runs about the same rpm on the highway as the stock converter did. Launch is MUCH improved. My view: call a converter company, give them your specifications and let them help you. Don't just order something from Summit, Jegs, whoever.
 
If you shop based on your criteria of price under 400 bucks, just go ahead and get the most rock bottom "reman" converter you can lay your hands on, because it will not be a good one. Do a search. There are literally hundreds of threads on this.

I have a stock 11in converter that was rebuilt and increased stall to 2500 for about 200 bucks. Worked pretty well for a street driver. I'm not a magician with the transmission sooo, the difference between that one and my new 3500 tight tc isnt to drastic..
 
They're on ebay for $200; with a bit higher stall than stock. Factory hi-stall converters are under $100...if you can find em.
 
I wouldn't trust the converters on ebag, you are bucks ahead by finding some like PTC or an equivalent builder. Talk to them & tell them what you have & it's intended usage so they can build a quality converter for you.
 
I buy a lot of stuff off ebay; Red Eagle clutches, Kevlar bands, whatever is cheaper than my supplier. But I can't find a rear seal for a 65 904 for under $60. JUST THE REAR SEAL.
 
I buy a lot of stuff off ebay; Red Eagle clutches, Kevlar bands, whatever is cheaper than my supplier. But I can't find a rear seal for a 65 904 for under $60. JUST THE REAR SEAL.
I have never bought a thing off ebay, or rock auto. I won't deal with a company where I can't talk to a human, before I order something, or if I have a problem.
That said, it seems like rock auto is MADE for your rear seal problem. So, what gives?
 
before deciding anything you really need to know the specs on everything in the engine, weight of the car and the intended use. if you plan of changing the cam do it then get the converter. any good shop will sell you the proper converter as long as you give the proper information and are 100% honest on intended use. any wrong info could mean you aren't happy with the nee convertor.
 
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