70 Dart Power Steering Box Removal

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69GT

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I want to swap out the factory power steering box in my 70 Dart for another steering box I have. I was looking at the box in the car and was trying to determine what I will have to do to get it out. The car has TTI headers on it. Does anyone know if the box will come out with the driver side header in place? If not, would I possibly be able to get it out if I undid the driver side motor mount and tilted the engine a bit? I'm hoping I can avoid having to take the header out.
 
SB ? My BB I had to take the header off the head and collector and move it around to get my starter off. I think the steering box may require that at least but IDK for sure,
 
It ain't that bad; I pulled it out three times in the same week, I think twice on the same day.
68 Barracuda, 360/4-speed, TTIs, 1.03 bars.
I can't even remember loosening the Header, so I bet I didn't. (EDIT;But I just don't remember; that was 2004 or so. This work was done on a hoist; )
But;
I must confess, Many years ago, before I installed the column, I bopped the business-end on the garage floor, and severed all the nylon shear-pins. Now the lower D-section steering-rod telescopes up into the column with ease. Pretty clever I thought.
 
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I want to swap out the factory power steering box in my 70 Dart for another steering box I have. I was looking at the box in the car and was trying to determine what I will have to do to get it out. The car has TTI headers on it. Does anyone know if the box will come out with the driver side header in place? If not, would I possibly be able to get it out if I undid the driver side motor mount and tilted the engine a bit? I'm hoping I can avoid having to take the header out.

I went through this a few weeks ago. My header tube sections are free of each other so I removed only the front tube. I cut the front and rear tubes free of center tubes when I install the headers - Hooker Comps on 72 Duster. It makes it easier for me like when installing the headers and dinking around with them later. Anyway that front one was in the way. It's a coolant bolt on the front. So I removed it and used a porta power wedge attachment to move it back and up out of the way. The battery and battery tray was removed which helped. I used a hoist to pull the engine off the mount after removing the bottom bolt. The job was a ***** for me , hard to get wrench on the steering box mount bolts, hard to get the box past header while holding the weight. Hey I'm 65 now, I should probably do it a smarter way. Coolant making a mess, hard to get new box bolts in and started, actually removed box, trimmed mount bolt holes out a little and repainted, reinstalled. Paint was in the way of bolt holes a little. I removed the pitman arm and left it dangling in place, which made it harder. Didn't want to remove other end of pitman arm. Pay attention to how steering shaft comes apart from box and wheels forward, centered. The pitman arm goes on to the box shaft in one of 4 positions to be centered.
 
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Good points in Post#6;
>my battery is in the trunk and the tray is gone
>my heads are alloys with blind holes so no coolant loss.
>I dropped BOTH the pitman and the idler, so lots of room.
>in 2004, I was only 51, but I'm fairly certain that I am stronger today.....

You know; I've been thinking about this; I mighta pushed the T-bar back and loosened the header; but I just don't remember. My T-bars move easy.
 
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