Burn out issues

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You don’t need $5,000 in racepack stuff to get engine rpm/drive line rpm/afr data. You can get that for $500-$600 if you have msd box in the car. I have about $600 in my logging and I can do the above and throttle position sensor. Stick cars would really like it.
 
I have engine dyno sheets and mytrans gear ratios. Maybe if I put a pick up on the pinion I can get some info that can help me see where I can improve my basic clutch set up. But I don't have the cake for that right now so it'll have to wait.

Its nice to have input/driveshaft data, but you can also learn a lot about what the clutch is doing just from the shape of an engine rpm trace.

Grant
 
I have an MSD 7. But it's a black Mopar one that has a place for a module. That's where my 3 step is plugged into. Don't have 5 to 600 at the moment but what can I use to get that info? O2 sensor, pinion yoke magnetic pick up assy for a Strange super 60 with 1350 That's some money right there. And then I need to record the info. I realize to be competitive you need to use all the info available to you.
 
Its nice to have input/driveshaft data, but you can also learn a lot about what the clutch is doing just from the shape of an engine rpm trace.

Grant
Honestly I haven't even looked at the rpm drop when shifting. I made an effort to look at rpm through the trap. 6200...low
Quick math says if shifting at 7200 drops me to 4866 into second 4861 into 3rd and 5496 into 4th. That's based on 2.87,1.91,1.31 and 1 to 1 gearing in my Lenco. I believe. I will check at the track but that won't be till July 2nd...
 
Quick look at a tough to see gopro video shows the engine dropping to about 5100 on the shifts
 
The shape of the engine rpm trace what I look at. How fast the clutch pulls the engine down, transition shape at the bottom of the pulldown, how the climb after the pulldown compares.

Notice that actual input traces are generally straight lines with very little curve. If you have only an engine rpm trace to work with, a simple straight edge can help you visualize what the input trace would look like...

clutchtamerUnexgen2.png


Grant
 
I use Innovate motorsports AF gauge that you can daisy chain one of their SSI4 plus, 4 channel interfaces with. The gauge is $250, the interface was $100, the racepack 8 magnet collar was $125, the pocket logger was $80. The DIY auto tune pickup was $25? I used a 2003 350 Z throttle position sensor on my throttle pedal for throttle position. $35? Really just want to know how quick I’m at full throttle. So it’s accurate enough for me. It’s not Racepack, but I don’t have $5000. You get engine rpm from the tach signal port on the msd.
 
I use Innovate motorsports AF gauge that you can daisy chain one of their SSI4 plus, 4 channel interfaces with. The gauge is $250, the interface was $100, the racepack 8 magnet collar was $125, the pocket logger was $80. The DIY auto tune pickup was $25? I used a 2003 350 Z throttle position sensor on my throttle pedal for throttle position. $35? Really just want to know how quick I’m at full throttle. So it’s accurate enough for me. It’s not Racepack, but I don’t have $5000. You get engine rpm from the tach signal port on the msd.
I use Innovate motorsports AF gauge that you can daisy chain one of their SSI4 plus, 4 channel interfaces with. The gauge is $250, the interface was $100, the racepack 8 magnet collar was $125, the pocket logger was $80. The DIY auto tune pickup was $25? I used a 2003 350 Z throttle position sensor on my throttle pedal for throttle position. $35? Really just want to know how quick I’m at full throttle. So it’s accurate enough for me. It’s not Racepack, but I don’t have $5000. You get engine rpm from the tach signal port on the msd.
Do you have any problems with the oxygen sensor? I have fenderwell headers and dynomax bullets with about 2 feet of turndown.
 
E93CA4D7-A5FD-4FD2-8182-457C7F160E84.jpeg
Don’t mind the pink or green traces. Pink is AF and green is throttle position. I have not applied any smoothing to the traces. The dotted lines are a good run with the 727, the solid are with a low gear set 904.
 
No, but I run stock 340 exhaust manifolds and down pipes. I put the sensor down on the inside near the front of the trans.
 
I have an innovative motorsports in dual quad Roadrunner and ran one in the son's Duster 360. I may have another set up kicking around. So you are running unleaded or just fouling sensors?
 
C12 or VP blue. All leaded. The sensor is a year old. I use it to get in the ballpark. Then tune for mph. I really like the gauge when the car does something funky. Say it has a slight miss at higher rpm. Look at the gauge and its lean. You know it is fuel/air related. Same issue but it’s fat. Probably ignition. Could be flooding the bowls, but that is pretty obvious. That and I’m working on the lean spike at the hit. I have the carb so far out of its comfort zone, that I can’t really slow the sec air valve down enough. You can break the small spring that controls it if you tighten it too much. It just needs a sec enrichment system, like the AFB or a Holley. I have an old AEM gauge that worked for years without killing the sensor. Did it lose accuracy? Probably, the number to me isn’t as important as long as it stays pretty much the same throughout the day.
 
Mine when two years before it quit working.
Leaded 110
 
I replaced many of them while i was trying to get my data logger figured out.
The one i just replaced is used, we will see how long it lasts.
The leaded fuel will kill them, but they last a lot longer then people say.
 
Went to Epping yesterday. Adjusted my Vikings per there recommendation. Got 5 runs before I decided to leave. Waited an hour and a half for my next run and decided I'd had enough. Pressed that brake pedal hard and engaged the line lock. Good burn outs. Car got better 60 foot times as more rubber got put down. Getting there. Hope you can read my writing. Thanks all

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One of my friends in high school , used to yank the wheel left to make it look like his car was going fast on each shift ( 67 chubelle 283 / 4 speed )
 
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