68-76 4 speed pedals compatibility?

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Plymouth Duster

Plymouth Duster

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Hey guy

Will be looking for a set of pedals for a 72 duster for a future project and wanted to know if there are any differences to be aware of?

prefer a set from a 70-72 plymouth duster but assuming 68-72 Chrysler abody are the same and curious if 68-76 are the same?

thanks
 
Get the HD ones from high performance car like 383 or 340...the HD ones have a braced in area where spring is and larger spring....they sell for about $150 extra......really sturdy pedal....they have bearings instead if bushings...Holy grail abody pedals
 
Mtrhead said:
Get the HD ones from high performance car like 383 or 340...the HD ones have a braced in area where spring is and larger spring....they sell for about $150 extra......really sturdy pedal....they have bearings instead if bushings...Holy grail abody pedals
Click to expand...
Thank you
I’ll look into those assuming 340 for my abody. The 383 ones being rare darts are they same design as plymouth. I’m assuming mopar which owned quite few is t as nutty as GM was with almost nothing interchangeable for some of these items. Heck some of the 442s I did pedals varried by year or ever 2 max. Let alone using poncho or Chebby
 
All A-body pedals from 67 to 76 interchange. But not all are the same.
1) there are two pedal ratios; one for the slantys, and the other for everything else.
2) there is the aforementioned HD version for 340s and up.
3) the standard duty V-8 pedals

>If you plan on running a Diaphragm clutch, then the standard duty is all you need. You will be popping the spring off anyway, and with it gone, you don't need the "bearings" which are really just bronze bushings. I haven't tried it, but with a diaphragm clutch, I imagine even the Slanty pedal ratio would work.
>The HD version is for the HD B&B 3-finger clutches that the factory installed on the more powerful engines. The greater ratio makes it easier to control the pedal.
 
AJ/FormS said:
All A-body pedals from 67 to 76 interchange. But not all are the same.
1) there are two pedal ratios; one for the slantys, and the other for everything else.
2) there is the aforementioned HD version for 340s and up.
3) the standard duty V-8 pedals

>If you plan on running a Diaphragm clutch, then the standard duty is all you need. You will be popping the spring off anyway, and with it gone, you don't need the "bearings" which are really just bronze bushings. I haven't tried it, but with a diaphragm clutch, I imagine even the Slanty pedal ratio would work.
>The HD version is for the HD B&B 3-finger clutches that the factory installed on the more powerful engines. The greater ratio makes it easier to control the pedal.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info. Looking for a 8 cylinder set and I imagine 340 sets are harder to come by. It’s for a future project so I’ll hunt around.
 
I've forgotten, may have been OldManMopar had a post on modifying the linkage pivot to increase travel on the "non" high performance pedals
 
AJ/FormS said:
1) there are two pedal ratios; one for the slantys, and the other for everything else.
Click to expand...

Anything to corroborate that? I've never heard of the pedals having a different ratio.

Pretty sure the z-bar has different ratios between a v8 and a slant, and I think the fork is a different length. Or maybe the z-bar ratio is the same, but they don't interchange due to tube length and only the fork is different. Not sure.

Either way, never heard of the pedals being different beyond the bushings and spring brace.
 
DionR said:
Anything to corroborate that? I've never heard of the pedals having a different ratio.

Pretty sure the z-bar has different ratios between a v8 and a slant, and I think the fork is a different length. Or maybe the z-bar ratio is the same, but they don't interchange due to tube length and only the fork is different. Not sure.

Either way, never heard of the pedals being different beyond the bushings and spring brace.
Click to expand...
Yea I’m hoping the pedals other then the HP ones 340 would all be the same. Hoping it’s 3 different z bars or clutch rods.
Any idea how the aftermarket is for these parts or terrible fitment. On Oldsmobiles they send you Chevy repops and they barely fit a Chevy let alone Oldsmobile but our pedals were different year to year not via pivot pin or engine size
 
Plymouth Duster said:
Yea I’m hoping the pedals other then the HP ones 340 would all be the same. Hoping it’s 3 different z bars or clutch rods.
Any idea how the aftermarket is for these parts or terrible fitment. On Oldsmobiles they send you Chevy repops and they barely fit a Chevy let alone Oldsmobile but our pedals were different year to year not via pivot pin or engine size
Click to expand...

Don't know about aftermarket. You might check out Brewers for parts/info - Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
 
DionR said:
Anything to corroborate that? I've never heard of the pedals having a different ratio.

Pretty sure the z-bar has different ratios between a v8 and a slant, and I think the fork is a different length. Or maybe the z-bar ratio is the same, but they don't interchange due to tube length and only the fork is different. Not sure.

Either way, never heard of the pedals being different beyond the bushings and spring brace.
Click to expand...
Again I THINK it was OldManMopar laid them out side by side. Yuep....different
 
There are two different pedal ratios. I know there’s a magazine article on it that also showed how to modify them. Not sure I can find it easily, but there are in fact two different pedal ratios.

The rest of it is right on, there are also the HD ones out there. If you’re just looking for pedals, they will all bolt in 68-76. HD ones would be a better choice if you’re running a borg and beck or hybrid with a heavy pedal effort.

And if you go hydraulic it doesn’t matter at all, you need to change stuff anyway so anything that bolts in is fine.

I seem to recall that there’s some other small differences based on the clutch switch changing. It can help identify the actual year for those that care but doesn’t really matter otherwise.
 
72bluNblu said:
Here’s the article

Four-Speed A-Body Clutch Pedal Adjustment - Torque Shaft Rod - Mopar Muscle Magazine

Apparently it wasn’t just a /6 vs V8 change but there are two different ratio’s.

And the earlier pedals in that year range don’t have a provision for a clutch safety switch, that was the year based difference I mentioned.
Click to expand...
Thank you sir
Will be reading that shortly. I doubt I’ll be able to find or afford the HD. The project will prob be a slant into a 318/360 833 combo but stock type clutch. My HP days are behind me and I’m actually enjoying this slant 72 I have but the itch is there to have another pedal. So if I build the 318 or 360 it would be an rv cam type build with exhaust manifold aluminum intake and dual exhaust so heavy duty clutch not really needed.

or could find a slant bellhousing and have a stick slant. Just thought of that right now. Never had a slant 4 speed

thanks again for the article. Much appreciated
 
Funny, I kind of remember that article. Obviously it didn't stick though.

Thanks all for corroborating that there are two different ratios. Always glad to learn.

Unless I read it wrong, the article appears to imply that it was a year change, not a V8 vs /6. Seems like that's what Blu got as well.
 
If a guy has a hydraulic clutch, and a borg and beck 3 finger clutch, does ratio matter? I converted mine from auto to 4 spd with a hydraulic clutch, but haven't gotten it on the road yet. Just wondering if I got the right pedals. Pedals were purchased with trans, but I doubt everything came from the same car.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
If a guy has a hydraulic clutch, and a borg and beck 3 finger clutch, does ratio matter? I converted mine from auto to 4 spd with a hydraulic clutch, but haven't gotten it on the road yet. Just wondering if I got the right pedals. Pedals were purchased with trans, but I doubt everything came from the same car.
Click to expand...
Ratio can be adjusted "overall" but it gets down to linkage position. A lever that is at 90 to a pushrod movement has maximum leverage and minimum movement, wheras that same lever moves in an arc and say, approaches a 180 angle, now has more movement but way less leverage. So even if the mechanics are connected to hydraulics, you still need to keep the movement within bounds. The good news with hydraulics is, that when you eliminate the Z bar, you also eliminate that problem with the Z bar.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
If a guy has a hydraulic clutch, and a borg and beck 3 finger clutch, does ratio matter? I converted mine from auto to 4 spd with a hydraulic clutch, but haven't gotten it on the road yet. Just wondering if I got the right pedals. Pedals were purchased with trans, but I doubt everything came from the same car.
Click to expand...

The original ratio doesn’t matter, that’s for sure. But yes, you do still have to pay attention to your geometry so you can match the mechanical motion of the clutch with the hydraulic function of the master cylinder. Although that can be adjusted some with the diameter of the master cylinder. But it does matter where you attach the push rod to the clutch pedal.
 
72bluNblu said:
The original ratio doesn’t matter, that’s for sure. But yes, you do still have to pay attention to your geometry so you can match the mechanical motion of the clutch with the hydraulic function of the master cylinder. Although that can be adjusted some with the diameter of the master cylinder. But it does matter where you attach the push rod to the clutch pedal.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Master has an adj bracket, to get everything lined up, right. Shouldn't be an too much longer, gotta measure for a drive line and play the waiting game on having it made.
 
Mtrhead said:
Get the HD ones from high performance car like 383 or 340...the HD ones have a braced in area where spring is and larger spring....they sell for about $150 extra......really sturdy pedal....they have bearings instead if bushings...Holy grail abody pedals
Click to expand...
Hey
Wondering if you can help ID these if they are Hd or 318. I don’t think there from a slant but just hoping someone can ID these a body peddles and if they are 340. I would be happy with even 318 pedals as using a stocking type clutch and I a friend that says he uses Slant pedals on all his conversions and never had an issue. I just don’t want any last minute headaches or isssues

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Help ID this set of pedals if they are from Slant, 318 or HD style like 340 and BB darts

Thanks everyone.
Gonna be a 390 or 408 stoker with a performance clutch but nothing racing type. Just a OEM type with a little performance in mind

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