famous bob
mopar misfit
I currently run a 400# spring on mine and it works fine
must have more initial bite than me ---------??
I currently run a 400# spring on mine and it works fine
So Menscer wanted you to go stiffer than 250? They just want the spring to hold the car up to ride height with no energy in it. Yeah, there is a 9.4’s second ZL1 Camaro running in the class that has a good 500-600 hp on me and about the same nose weight. He’s running a stiff front spring, he doesn’t need any help getting it to transfer and the rate of transfer is within his shock tuning window. Each car is so individual.
What are you asking?must have more initial bite than me ---------??
275/60/15 M/T Pro Bracket Radialwhat size and kind of rear tire is he running _??
Whatever came on the car from the factory. This is the car as it runs.what size and kind of rear tire is he running _??
That's the part number for the springs installed on the shocks. I misidentified them earlier, as I didn't have my geezer glasses on when reading the number. 10HT250.
Let's not forget the electronically controlled timing retard that is a HUGE reason why those cars are able to get out of the hole and make the impressive passes that they do.....Please don't take away that I am not impressed with those cars because I am but just like in all other forms of heads up racing there are lots more going on than meets the average eye and that always has and always will include breaking of the rules.View attachment 1715942838
Whatever came on the car from the factory. This is the car as it runs.
You need to call a place like Menscer or Afco or equivalent......they will ask details about your car and help with suggesting a proper spring from there.......most replies you will get on here will be opinions and most of them aren't worth much either. You also need some real rear shocks too....throw those other ones in the trash.This suspension tuning is very confusing to me. So based upon what I'm seeing from comments on the 250# springs versus the torsion bars that were on the car, are the 250 springs not enough? too much? What are the recommendations for the spring I should be using?
I explained what John at Menscers told me for MY CAR and the reasons for what he wanted me to run but my car and your car are probably different which is why I said just pick up the phone.This suspension tuning is very confusing to me. So based upon what I'm seeing from comments on the 250# springs versus the torsion bars that were on the car, are the 250 springs not enough? too much? What are the recommendations for the spring I should be using?
You hit on a very important topic that I think is being promoted in this thread but with the shock technology available today you no longer need to " yank the front " to transfer weight to the rear tires and keep the tire planted after the hit......you see it in your class with the fastest top tier cars and also with most of the very fast radial cars as they leave almost dead flat.....just stick and bye bye......the OP needs some good rear shocks for one and also needs to talk to one of the top shock and spring companies tech support to get the right components for his car's specifics. I'm guessing on your own car which being a 340 car if I remember correctly and obviously doesn't have near the power of the 427 and Hemi guys and you don't have any kind of launch control and so you still have to make it work for a lack of better terms "the old way" with weight transfer.Absolutely! MANY things going on to get it to launch. He’s still low 1.5’s in the 60’ in a car that is 3300 lbs? He is definitely not using all the power at the hit. He is using enough to top out the suspension with very little stored energy in the front suspension. To date these cars don’t/can’t really “carry” the front tire. They lift them, but not really carry them. The question being. How high do you really want to lift the tire. Wasted energy up instead of out. I NEED the energy to get the nose up in a quick enough fashion to be useful.
I am not sure I read it but from your avatar picture i'm guessing you are running a slick of some sort.....a radial is faster and more stable at speed if you aren't already using one and the drag radial has been proven to be very very fast and stable and the adjustments and setup would be different as well.This suspension tuning is very confusing to me. So based upon what I'm seeing from comments on the 250# springs versus the torsion bars that were on the car, are the 250 springs not enough? too much? What are the recommendations for the spring I should be using?
I have heard that information, unfortunately I just put a new pair of Hoosier 30.5 X 13.5 X 15 slicks on the car, so I won't be making the change any time soon.I am not sure I read it but from your avatar picture i'm guessing you are running a slick of some sort.....a radial is faster and more stable at speed if you aren't already using one and the drag radial has been proven to be very very fast and stable and the adjustments and setup would be different as well.
Absolutely! MANY things going on to get it to launch. He’s still low 1.5’s in the 60’ in a car that is 3300 lbs? He is definitely not using all the power at the hit. He is using enough to top out the suspension with very little stored energy in the front suspension. To date these cars don’t/can’t really “carry” the front tire. They lift them, but not really carry them. The question being. How high do you really want to lift the tire. Wasted energy up instead of out. I NEED the energy to get the nose up in a quick enough fashion to be useful.
This is another good point that gets lost and not sure it's relevant to this post but it is true that the sidewall is the most important aspect of a drag radial.....whatever "tread" one thinks they have or wear bar holes per say aren't nowhere near as important as protecting the sidewall. This is one of the reasons why guys will run larger width rims, run bead locks etc. all in an effort to keep the sidewall stiff......you don't want to be crushing the sidewall as it will prematurely ruin the tire.....again really good shocks come into play here. Thanks for bringing that up....My Dart has been 1.34 60 and most of the time will not pick up the front tires. The track and prep make a huge difference. Over the years I've been to a handful of radial races (200 mph 1/8 mile speeds) and all the tracks had one thing in common, the prep was great. Pull your shoes off great.
My buddy and I took my car to Jackson TN to do some shock testing a few years ago. I was struggling to get ahold of my local track and shock adjustments really weren't making any difference. He suggest we go to Jackson because of the track prep. Long story short, what we found was my rear set up was good (for Jackson), but the more we tightened the extension on the fronts, the better the 60' got. We finally ended up on full tight. My front shocks had been revalved for more or less a no prep track. I learned a lot that day, one thing was that the sidewalls on my 325 radials were shot, even with 21 psi it was wadding up the drivers side tire.
Same springs, AFCO rep said they were correct for my application. He said I could go to a 12 inch spring but the 10 should work.What springs did you end up with? Glad you’re hookin and bookin now