Edelbrock RpM head question

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dukeboy440

dukeboy440

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Do the Edelbrock RPM heads take factory spec header/exhaust manifold flange bolts? Or rather what is the thread pitch?
 
3/8x16 coarse. Beware! Mopar iron head exhaust bolts go into the water jackets, so it doesn't matter if the bolts are too long. You need to use sealer.
The rpm head exhaust holes are blind (dry) so make sure the bolts you use are not too long.
 
33IMP said:
3/8x16 coarse. Beware! Mopar iron head exhaust bolts go into the water jackets, so it doesn't matter if the bolts are too long. You need to use sealer.
The rpm head exhaust holes are blind (dry) so make sure the bolts you use are not too long.
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Good to know. Thanks! Debating if I wanna go studs or bolts.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Good to know. Thanks! Debating if I wanna go studs or bolts.
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Studs work OK with manifolds. They can be a real pain in the butt with headers. If you want to use studs with headers, I would plan on bolts first, then exchange the bolts for studs, one at a time, if you have access.
Personally, I would never even consider studs with headers....
 
33IMP said:
Studs work OK with manifolds. They can be a real pain in the butt with headers. If you want to use studs with headers, I would plan on bolts first, then exchange the bolts for studs, one at a time, if you have access.
Personally, I would never even consider studs with headers....
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Cool cool, just worried about aluminum heads and steel bolts, even with anti-seize.
 
I woukd also mock them up and check pushrod clearance. Eddy says to use 3/8 rod, I have 4 that are rubbing ever so slightly!!!
 
Measure depth to make SURE you get sufficient thread engagement. Many of the header bolts are too short! And the holes in the Eddie heads do NOT go into the water jackets.
 
Demonx2 said:
Measure depth to make SURE you get sufficient thread engagement. Many of the header bolts are too short! And the holes in the Eddie heads do NOT go into the water jackets.
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will do
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Cool cool, just worried about aluminum heads and steel bolts, even with anti-seize.
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Don’t worry about this. Just a little strip of anti seize to aid in removal IF needed. BTDT & still doing it.

I use header bolts mostly. Studs on the end help a lot. Just get a small length from the hardware store, cut to size, bevel the edges on the bench grinder, run a die on it to restraighten the threads out. I do this all the time since hanging the header AND gasket is easier to install.
 
roccodart440 said:
There is no issue with this.

Buy stage 8 SS locking bolts and use anti seize.
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I attempted to use the stage 8 bolts on the 340 with headers. Ended up throwing them all in the trash can and went back to normal bolts.

The locking mechanism tabs would not go on because there was no room for them.
Might have been the size of the header tubes but the headers are w5 TTI.
 
dodgedifferent2 said:
I attempted to use the stage 8 bolts on the 340 with headers. Ended up throwing them all in the trash can and went back to normal bolts.

The locking mechanism tabs would not go on because there was no room for them.
Might have been the size of the header tubes but the headers are w5 TTI.
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Strange, I've have a few that I couldn't use due to header tube interference, but most are ok on mine. I like their stuff though, quality.
 
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