Bewy said

When I built a 440 last year that had alum heads, I used studs for the rocker shaft retention. I would switch to studs before doing anything else. Make sure the studs bottom out, that way you use all the threads to better distribute the load. You might get lucky with the stripped thread........if there is enough thread left.
Here is how to do it: remove the rockers from the shaft. Loctite all the studs & screw them in. Refit the shaft & fit nuts & tighten up, but just snug. The idea is to let the Loctite set under the working load it will see. Make sure when making the studs, you leave room for TWO nuts. After the Loctite has set, refit rockers + shafts. Use ONE nut to tighten the hold downs. The shafts sit in a cradle & are well supported, so no need to go overboard when tightening. Just snug. Don't forget with a hollow shaft, you get to a point where you are squashing the shaft & not tightening anymore. Use the other nut as a lock nut to prevent loosening off.

No need to go through the back breaking adjustment procedure above for setting lash. This is a Mopar procedure that allows you to adjust 16 valves for just two crank rotations. Adjust 2 intake, & 2 exh at each location.

#1 TDC: 2,7; 4,8
rotate 180 CW: 1,8; 3,6
rotate 180 CW [ now #6 TDC ]: 3,4; 5,7
rotate 180 CW:5,6; 1,2

Done!

Click to expand...