Big Block ticking? Flat tappet cam. Normal?

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FWIW, I ordered the hold down kit from 440 source. 200-1032 Aluminum Rocker Holddown Set
Avoid it at all costs, or just get studs as well.

For some reason their store is closed right now. Not sure if it is to do inventory or if they closed. I am not ordering right now so I don't need to call them.
 
Kent.
[1] The chart in post #25 works ok, a bit more work than the chart I posted, which is accurate for cams up to 290* @ 050. Not many are using cams that big....
[2] If you have 5/16 - 3/8" of thread engagement left in the damaged hole, I think the stud + Loctite will hold. Loctite will fill the gaps in the thread, lock everything together solidly as a single unit & make it stronger than it would be without Loctite.
[3] The factory tq spec for the rocker bolt is 25 ft/lb. TQ spec for a similar ARP grade 8 bolt is double, about 50ft/lb. The low TQ # is so that the hollow shaft does not deform; but the tq, at 25 ft/lb, also has to be high enough so that the bolt does not loosen. So tighten to 25 ft/lb, not more.
 
Bewy said:
Kent.
[1] The chart in post #25 works ok, a bit more work than the chart I posted, which is accurate for cams up to 290* @ 050. Not many are using cams that big....
[2] If you have 5/16 - 3/8" of thread engagement left in the damaged hole, I think the stud + Loctite will hold. Loctite will fill the gaps in the thread, lock everything together solidly as a single unit & make it stronger than it would be without Loctite.
[3] The factory tq spec for the rocker bolt is 25 ft/lb. TQ spec for a similar ARP grade 8 bolt is double, about 50ft/lb. The low TQ # is so that the hollow shaft does not deform; but the tq, at 25 ft/lb, also has to be high enough so that the bolt does not loosen. So tighten to 25 ft/lb, not more.
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thanks for the help. Parts are set to arrive on Tuesday. Which color loctite do you recommend red or blue?
 
The high strength, not sure of the colour. I use a lot of 'Loctite', so I get a large bottle.
Loctite has become a generic name for thread lockers etc in general; mine is a generic brand, high strength & red in colour.
 
Well, I placed the studs and adjusted valve lash to spec. I don’t think I said earlier that this is a solid flat tappet camshaft. I just said flat tappet. It is not a hydraulic flat tappet cam. I took it out for a short 10 minute jaunt around town. It runs very well. Very responsive. YET, the sounds are still there. The ticking is not as noticeable but still making noise. Let me know what you think now. YouTube made it a short so the video quality is not as good. https://youtube.com/shorts/lLXuosr67Fs?feature=share
 
Set one bank to zero lash and do a 30 second test fire.

See if that quiets down the one bank. if so it tells you you have too much lash on your valve settings.
 
I know it may not be related, but with our 273 solid flat tappet, comp said .022. 270S cam.

20220622_011605.jpg
 
I could never understand why some companies have bigger hot lash on the exh. The engine is at operating temp, so all the clearances are taken care of.

I suggest tightening lash to 0.008", hot, as a test. If the noise is still there or doesn't change much, it suggests something other than the valve train is causing the noise.

What rockers are you using?
 
Resetting the lash will have to wait for the weekend. But I will try. I have 440 source 1.6 ratio rockers.
64BAF060-6046-47EB-8048-F53123E18E69.jpeg


the cam was ground for 1.5 rockers with lash at .016 and .018. When going to 1.6 lash jumps to .017 and .019. Numbers on the rockers are cold lash settings
 
So I watched a video on youtube where the guy removed to spark plug wire to assess which cylinder was causing the noise. Any thoughts on that method for my noise. To me it does not sound like rod knock. I want to also check the transmission cover plate. I had an issue with it hitting before and I got a new one installed. But i never ran it since the install. I hope that this is just a dumb mistake of the flex plate bolts hitting the cover. The flex plate is one of the bigger, thicker SFI race plate. So the bolts stick out a bit. Fingers crossed.
 
The spark removal isn't going to change a valve train related noise, but it is a quick, non-invasive test for rod knock.
 
Bewy said:
I could never understand why some companies have bigger hot lash on the exh. The engine is at operating temp, so all the clearances are taken care of.
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Lots of vehicle manufactures do it as well.. I guess they factor in exhaust valve growth under extreme conditions, eg. towing up hill etc..
 
I’d set the lash at like .012-.014 cold(sitting at least over night).

Put 100 or so miles on it, check it again cold(sitting over night).

You want to see that it’s still where you set it.
 
PRH said:
I’d set the lash at like .012-.014 cold(sitting at least over night).

Put 100 or so miles on it, check it again cold(sitting over night).

You want to see that it’s still where you set it.
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I did set it at .011 and .013 cold when I put the studs on and adjusted the valves. I will put some miles on it and post what I find. From when I installed the 1.6 rockers (440 source brand like the 1.5 ratio they replaced). The lash opened up .003-.004 on both the intake and exhaust. I am not sure if that is normal break in or uniform wear.

And I have put on 100-150 miles since the original 1.6 install and a few full throttle runs up to 100 mph.
 
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What became of the hole the threads were pulled out of? Was there enough threads left to tighten the stud down?
 
RustyRatRod said:
What became of the hole the threads were pulled out of? Was there enough threads left to tighten the stud down?
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There was plenty of thread. I did not even have to tap. I just threaded a bolt down to clean the threads and I was able to get over .600 inch of goo thread. The studs worked great
 
Kent mosby said:
There was plenty of thread. I did not even have to tap. I just threaded a bolt down to clean the threads and I was able to get over .600 inch of goo thread. The studs worked great
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That's great news! I was hopeful. Keep in mind solid lifters are gonna make some noise, regardless.
 
Kent mosby said:
I did set it at .011 and .013 cold when I put the studs on and adjusted the valves. I will put some miles on it and post what I find. From when I installed the 1.6 rockers (440 source brand like the 1.5 ratio they replaced). The lash opened up .003-.004 on both the intake and exhaust. I am not sure if that is normal break in or uniform wear.

And I have put on 100-150 miles since the original 1.6 install and a few full throttle runs up to 100 mph.
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are you saying you set lash at .011 and .013 cold. After 100 miles you checked again COLD and lash was greater by .0035”
 
cookietruck said:
are you saying you set lash at .011 and .013 cold. After 100 miles you checked again COLD and lash was greater by .0035”
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Yes. This was on a fresh set of rocker arms. My thoughts are that if a cam was going bad not all lobes would wear the same so my mind says this is just settling in or the fact that cold in January vs June makes a difference. I have thought about many things that could go wrong, lobe going flat, rocker arm/needle bearings wearing, push rods bending. Yes the symmetry of the measurements perplex me. I will drive it a bunch this week and check the results. Any thoughts or help welcome
 
I know aluminum heads have a different procedure for valve adjustment. I cannot remember exactly WHAT it is, but I know they differ from iron heads.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I know aluminum heads have a different procedure for valve adjustment. I cannot remember exactly WHAT it is, but I know they differ from iron heads.
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Iq52 says just take off .006 from hot lash settings and you are there.
 
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