If I paint a car from scratch I go thru more than a gal. of prep cleaner.
I wipe them down before I apply any primers, epoxy urethane, sealer, topcoat/clear, guess I am just anal!!!??
If I paint a car from scratch I go thru more than a gal. of prep cleaner.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jasco-32-f...y_1f4veBKkyQ5fd5t3waAq1REALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.dsFirst I need to say that I have painted well over a hundred cars in my life and I always use high quality wax and grease remover prior to sanding, body work, primer, final wipe down prior to tack ragging. A gallon of the stuff seems to last forever so the cost is not an issue for me.
Enter supply chain issues... Since I retired and the stock market is taking a dive, I have switched from the big name locally mixed automotive finishes to a mail order brand. (I save HUNDREDS on a paint job) I ordered some paint online from Auto Body Toolmart the other day and just got an email that it is back ordered. The order included the wax and grease remover I need for the pre-sanding step so I'm dead in the water.
Anyone have a good substitute for wax and grease remover? I don't want to soften the paint with lacquer but I thought perhaps a urethane reducer would not be quite so harsh? Anyways, I'm interested in a good off the shelf alternative for pre-sanding. Obviously I will have the right stuff when the paint arrives.
Thanks
This is probably the best price for a gallon of wax and grease remover.If I paint a car from scratch I go thru more than a gal. of prep cleaner.
Here's there price, but don't know about shipping.I don’t know what it costs, price isn’t listed. My painter had never tried it before, but really liked it. He did note that you need to allow it ample time to dry as it states in the directions. Longer than most are used to.
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/solvent-wg-remover
Just looked them up. Looks like some really good deals. I've got all my all my stuff for the job I'm doing now, but maybe use them in the future. Do you know if they charge a shipping fee?I got my order from Auto Body Toolmart yesterday which included the wax and grease remover. So I have been using a paint from a company called Kirker the past couple years. If you want a exact color reproduction look elsewhere but if you can live with one of their stock colors, or don't mind mixing something up like a mad scientist, you can save huge money. Not a huge fan of a couple primers I have used from them however.
I have the wax and grease remover from the link @RogerRamRod posted above. I have their waterborne wax & grease remover also, and use it first, and then go over it again with the solvent-based wax & grease remover. I use everything from the metal out to the base coat from Southern Polyurethane, use base coat from a local PPG store, and then use Southern Polyurethane's Universal Clear on top of the base. Had great success doing that so far!
Automotive Refinishing | United States | Southern Polyurethanes
They do charge a shipping fee and it is ground shipping only because of the chemicals but it still comes out cheaper than the big names. I have learned that their tech sheets are a little fast on the reducer speeds and actually talked to them about that and the person agreed they could be improved on but the paint is good. If you go on their instagram site I have 2 of my paint jobs on there site. My 71 Demon and 51 GMC pickup in matte black.Just looked them up. Looks like some really good deals. I've got all my all my stuff for the job I'm doing now, but maybe use them in the future. Do you know if they charge a shipping fee?
I think a lot of people do. A friend of mine likes the original look of not having a clear. I learned shooting acrylic enamel which I can shoot much better than the 2 stage base coat clear coat systems. The only problem is with metallic and especially low pigment ones like silver, gold, etc., it is really hard to get a good gloss without stripes. For that reason I like to fog the base coat to make it uniform and then clear it. You are right about the slow reducers...I just wish I had a better feel for the paints these days like I did back when I shot A.E.. The new hvlp guns also throw me off. I had been using a Sharpe FX3000 but it just didn't give me a wide enough pattern so I purchased one of those 3M plastic guns with the replaceable tips. It's 5 guns in one. I'll post a review of my experience with it after I use it but from what I have seen, shops are having good luck with them.II was taught shooting the single stage acrylic urethane, to try to use a slow as possible reducer if you can But who shoots that anymore, but me??
I recently changed my old spraying habits. I get closer to the panel and move faster now. It has really helped me.I think a lot of people do. A friend of mine likes the original look of not having a clear. I learned shooting acrylic enamel which I can shoot much better than the 2 stage base coat clear coat systems. The only problem is with metallic and especially low pigment ones like silver, gold, etc., it is really hard to get a good gloss without stripes. For that reason I like to fog the base coat to make it uniform and then clear it. You are right about the slow reducers...I just wish I had a better feel for the paints these days like I did back when I shot A.E.. The new hvlp guns also throw me off. I had been using a Sharpe FX3000 but it just didn't give me a wide enough pattern so I purchased one of those 3M plastic guns with the replaceable tips. It's 5 guns in one. I'll post a review of my experience with it after I use it but from what I have seen, shops are having good luck with them.