Cooling problems

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Yeah I was thinking that also so I disconnected the procharger and charge tube and it still does it. Mind boggling!
Have you VERIFIED the engine is really over heating? Do you have an infrared temp gun? 20 bucks, so get one if you don't. That can tell the story quickly.
 
I stopped at post #1 & read no further. A 'toy' fan, 2250 cfm?

Large factory flex fans pulled in excess of 6000 cfm. Not hard to see where the problem is.....
 
I stopped at post #1 & read no further. A 'toy' fan, 2250 cfm?

Large factory flex fans pulled in excess of 6000 cfm. Not hard to see where the problem is.....
It also runs hot on the road. I mentioned the fan once already, but that's only at idle.
 
I stopped at post #1 & read no further. A 'toy' fan, 2250 cfm?

Large factory flex fans pulled in excess of 6000 cfm. Not hard to see where the problem is
That might explain the idle overheating but not the at speed over heating where the fan does not have an effect.
 
I would still like to see a better picture of the shroud.

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That shroud is blockin a LOT of real estate. Running without it makes no difference at all?
 
It got better when I gutted the thermostat. Sending unit is at the waterpump housing.
This statment by the OP points directly points at a coolant flow issue.
Which water pump are you using?
I had this same problem with my BBM stroker, over heated all the time.
I found that the impeller was spinning on the drive shaft in the water pump, cut down the coolant flow a lot. After posting about it I found that is not an uncommon issue.
 
Something to try as an experiment. place a high cfm fan like a furnace blower/ carpet blower or multiple fans directed ar the front of the radiator. See if this changes the overheat at idle condition. Try with and without shroud possibly. This might help narrow things down based on how it reacts. It's also easy and inexpensive if you have or can borrow the fans/ blowers.
 
This statment by the OP points directly points at a coolant flow issue.
Which water pump are you using?
I had this same problem with my BBM stroker, over heated all the time.
I found that the impeller was spinning on the drive shaft in the water pump, cut down the coolant flow a lot. After posting about it I found that is not an uncommon issue.
Interesting observation. I believe "somewhere" in all this he said it was a high flow water pump, but that's null and void if the impeller spins on the shaft. I've seen it too.
 
Is the front of the radiator support open to the entire radiator core?
 
It got better when I gutted the thermostat. Sending unit is at the waterpump housing.
That is not a good location for the coolant temp sending unit, that location is before the coolant passes through the engine, this would actually read cold. You want to read the coolant temp at the hottest point, the cylinder head or intake manifold at the T stat, this you give you a true coolant temp reading in the engine.
 
Is the front of the radiator support open to the entire radiator core?
It doesn't have to be. As long as most of the core is exposed, it's good, since the water is moving through the radiator, it will see air flow.
 
Interesting observation. I believe "somewhere" in all this he said it was a high flow water pump, but that's null and void if the impeller spins on the shaft. I've seen it too.
Rusty in my case it was a brand new Milodon high flow pump.
 
Here is what I found with my car that had the same problem exactly. My radiator had swelled tubes from the cooling system being over pressured. Aluminum radiators are noted for that when you blow a head gasket while under boost. The instant pressure will swell the tubes and shut off the air flow. This also happens if water in the radiator freezes over the winter. My Duster did the exact same thing as your car does.

We had a Chevy here and it too would over heat . It had a v-belt pump with a serpentine belt system which had a reverse flow pump.

But I would check your radiator air flow with a piece of paper on the front. I also made a air dam just as you did even put a bleeder in the pump I tried it all then I bit the bullet and bought another Be-cool rad.

Here are pics of the air dam and the petcoc bleed I putin the pump before I found the bad radiator. It had a big core rad with twin fans and still would climb to 240 in a couple minutes.

I should have known it was the radiator because I could shut it off and run the fan and pump and it would still take a long tIme to cool down.

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Something to try as an experiment. place a high cfm fan like a furnace blower/ carpet blower or multiple fans directed ar the front of the radiator. See if this changes the overheat at idle condition. Try with and without shroud possibly. This might help narrow things down based on how it reacts. It's also easy and inexpensive if you have or can borrow the fans/ blowers.
Great idea! Thanks
 
That shroud is blockin a LOT of real estate. Running without it makes no difference at all?
No had a different radiator which I put a pusher and puller. I have no clearance to put bigger fans or bigger shroud. Matter of fact in order to get a shroud at all I got this radiator which the motor is inbedded in the core itself! Expensive radiator!
 
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