Won't start one day and fires up first crank next day

69DartGTConv said

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Here is my wiring for 69 Dart, all the colors match my wiring except at ballast since originally it had a single ballast resister. I did reverse the ballast as you and many others suggested but same results. Are you and others saying the resistance changes when the wires are reversed? Not on any resister I know of or it wouldn't be a resistor, correct?

Let's talk about the last line of you statement above. The brn wire in my pic is ign2 from key switch, the org and only org goes to the coil. The red is carb choke and can be hooked elsewhere but is sharing the output from the resistor currently. Help me understand how I am wrong.

The my mopar pic doesn't show ign2 hooked direct to resistor and then to coil without going thru resistor.

Please anyone jump back in. thx

Click to expand...

You misread what I intended. You technically have part of the resistor wired correctly, but it does not follow the diagram. That is, you have the resistors hooked correctly, but the jumper is on the wrong end. This makes it more diffecult to troubleshoot "for us" because we see "the wrong end."

The thing you DO HAVE wrong is the CHOKE does not belong on the coil connection. This puts more load on the resistor and robs drops coil voltage lower. Connect the choke to the end with the jumpers, which should be "key run" IGN1

To confuse the resistance thing further, or not---the 4 pin resistor is TWO resistors. One side is basically the same as a breaker points system and is wired the same. The second one is also supplied from the "run" line and feeds only the box. There are darn few true 5 pin boxes, and even though a box has 5 physical pins, the odds are that it is in reality a 4 pin box electrically. This means the half of the ballast feeding the ECU is not actually doing anything.