Won't start one day and fires up first crank next day

You misread what I intended. You technically have part of the resistor wired correctly, but it does not follow the diagram. That is, you have the resistors hooked correctly, but the jumper is on the wrong end. This makes it more diffecult to troubleshoot "for us" because we see "the wrong end."

The thing you DO HAVE wrong is the CHOKE does not belong on the coil connection. This puts more load on the resistor and robs drops coil voltage lower. Connect the choke to the end with the jumpers, which should be "key run" IGN1

I get it and the choke will be disconnected tommorrow. thx

To confuse the resistance thing further, or not---the 4 pin resistor is TWO resistors. One side is basically the same as a breaker points system and is wired the same. The second one is also supplied from the "run" line and feeds only the box. There are darn few true 5 pin boxes, and even though a box has 5 physical pins, the odds are that it is in reality a 4 pin box electrically. This means the half of the ballast feeding the ECU is not actually doing anything.

Let me see if I understand your 5 pin or 4 pin box comment. Two wires from the box go to opposite sides of the bottom resistor and both wires are getting almost the same voltage. If one wire is not needed, I can disconnect them one at a time and the car should still run? I I can remove one of the wires I won't need the dual ballast.