Home made 15 x 10 with 5 on 4 1/2 b.c. and dog dish hubcaps.

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dodgedifferent2

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Decided i wanted to find a 10 inch wide rim and use the dog dish hubcaps.
So i found a 15 inch hoop from speedway motors.

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I found and drilled out the spot welds out of the factory rim so i could weld the center into the 15 inch hoop.

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The one rim had the welds on the backside so i simply turned out the welds and knocked the center out.
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the speedway rim had an inner diameter of 12.625 and the factory rims center was 13.25. So i spun the diameter to the smaller size and placed it into the new hoop.

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I built a jig so i could check the run out I used a spindle from a volare and the big bolt pattern rotor. I did not take a picture of the rim on the jig, but the dial indicator was placed to read the runout.
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After i tacked the center into the hoop. I went and welded the rim together alternating sides so it would not pull too much.
I found after welding i was out .030 inch. Factory tolerances is 0 - .040 inch. So i was within spec. The hoop had .030 inch runout.

After i took the rim to the wheel balancer to check to see if i welded equally. One rim i needed to add .25 and the second rim i was dead nuts even. I chalk that up to my awesome-ness :roll:

I still had to drill out a valve stem hole. I mounted the rim on the bridgeport table and drilled a 29/64 hole on the 42 degree angle on the hoop.
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Mock up on the wheel tub
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Now just to weld it all up and then i have a 15 inch rim and 10 inches wide so i can cram some 295/50/15 tires into the new mini tub.

I finally found some tires, but now i will have to wait till i have the rear axle placed back into the car during next mock up.
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I believe there are wheels hoops out there that have the chrysler sizing for the drop.

I found the info

There are 15x10's available in the following drops from Carlisle Wheel in paramount. they usually sell by the pallet.

312mm = 12.28"
320mm = 12.59"
337mm = 13.26"

Nice work... I'd love to have a lathe where I could spin up wheels.
 
I haven't seen this done since the 80's. Great job and photos of your work. With that big of a lathe you can split and widen aluminum wheels. We would take 4 factory aluminum wheels and make two wider wheels.

you can "chalk that up to Your awesome-ness "
 
WHOA!

Can you do that for me?

Yes i can


How did you set your back spacing/offset ?
Nice work! If you can't find it, build it!

Lots of measuring from the axle flange to fender and axle flange to frame.
Mine is set at 7.5 inches backspace.


I believe there are wheels hoops out there that have the chrysler sizing for the drop.

I found the info

There are 15x10's available in the following drops from Carlisle Wheel in paramount. they usually sell by the pallet.

312mm = 12.28"
320mm = 12.59"
337mm = 13.26"

Nice work... I'd love to have a lathe where I could spin up wheels.

MRW also has the hoops i need. Just learned about them 3 days ago.
 
This is an old thread and the guy that did this may not be on this site any more.
I am just wondering how much of the center flange was left to weld to. I mean he went from 13.25 down to 12.625. Was there anything left to weld to ???

I wonder , Frank
 
Oh I am here.

Flange was and is not needed. It was turned off and center welded back to the wheel shell. Could also argue that that was more area to weld. Aka arc

Welded on the flange or spot welded to the flange and welded without the flange is like arguing with yourself in a mirror.

Wheels take 500 HP and 325/50/15 sticky tires, side stepping the clutch and dead hooking. Been many years of fun
 
Hey good to see you are still here. I am the guy that had the 10 inch dogdish cap wheel centers stamped and I made sure that they still included the flange to weld to , like the factory wheels. To me the flat flanges provide more area to weld to , but considering I don't even know how to weld correctly , that's just my observation.
How have these wheels held up and are they still in use ???

Thanks for responding. Frank
The Wheel Guy
 
Who is MRW? Just curious. The place in CA was not always easy to deal with.
 
This is an old thread and the guy that did this may not be on this site any more.
I am just wondering how much of the center flange was left to weld to. I mean he went from 13.25 down to 12.625. Was there anything left to weld to ???

I wonder , Frank

Oh I am here.

Flange was and is not needed. It was turned off and center welded back to the wheel shell. Could also argue that that was more area to weld. Aka arc

Welded on the flange or spot welded to the flange and welded without the flange is like arguing with yourself in a mirror.

Wheels take 500 HP and 325/50/15 sticky tires, side stepping the clutch and dead hooking. Been many years of fun

The flange is just an assembly line thing, it helps locate the center for faster assembly and spot welds are a production line deal.

If you're making a set of one off's the flange isn't necessary. It's more welding and you have to be more careful making sure the wheel is true, but on a one off that's really not a big deal. If you're going to make tens of thousands of them, it's a big deal.
 
A guy on YouTube takes straps of metal and sections the rims. Lots of work, lots of big tools! That's a bad *** lathe!
 
Man, that is some truly awesome work! You still doing this kind of work?

I really wish someone made an aluminum version that would fit dog dish caps.
 
I'm still looking for someone to "rehoop" my 14x6 Motor Wheel Spyders to 15x7 or x8.

I know someone who could probably do it locally, if I could find chrome 15" shells to fit.

I'm seriously considering those Speedway Motors shells and finding someone to chrome them.
I have a feeling that might be cost prohibitive though, and possibly even questionable quality.
 
Being you are able to do the work, do you know of anyone in the area that would want some of my wheel centers to make wheels, to use the early 10 inch dogdish caps ??

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Duster2 How many of the 10" dog centers do you have? Were they from a 14" rim? I am kinda interested in them.
 
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