Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
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See if he will get rid of just the mopar stuff.
Standard Motor Products.ALL - auto parts - by owner - vehicle... (craigslist.org)
Standard Motor Products.ALL - auto parts - by owner - vehicle... (craigslist.org)
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Yeah for Team Blue. These LEOs today are in no win scenario after no win scenario every single day. Pray for these three guys and their families for the inevitable onslaught and intrusion into their lives in the coming weeks.
What's the difference between the "plymouth" center link and the "valiant" center link???
I need to get a parts catalog.
Suicide by Cop
No idea. My mopar has them though.
Just by the pic it looks like yours is the Valient.
From the picture one of them has the idler arm and the pitman arm going through the center link from the bottom on the other picture the pitman arm and the idler arm go through the top of the center link
Had no idea the whole steering was different between them.
The idler arm, pitman arm and center link all look different. Valiant is narrower than the B and C bodies.
I think the tie rod ends will work on both car models. Some have used the B body parts because they are larger and stronger. I think the tapers for the ends are the same though. @Mattax probably knows for sure.
I remember I used C body tie rods and sleeves when I restored that 68 roadrunner. Yes they are larger. And stronger.
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
When strength is the concern, do as we did on our Baja Bugs. Remove the rod ends and clamps, slide a piece of closely matching tubing over the tie rod, cut to proper length of course, plug weld in place
Yep been chatting with him. He said fly in, drive home. "It would be an adventure"
Too bad he's 6 hours from you. You could be my bird dog.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/661...I3ax29S0PCg08S8S5CCAvbVfOY7zqKnZ&__tn__=<,P-R
Mopar Cars Or Parts Wanted Or Forsale
Todd Rhynes · onosretdpS 12 h 8861aictn9PftfuaJ:70ue5M4g0g3uii ·
FB has no selection for a Polara, so I had to list it as a "Charger".
Body – Being from southern Washington, and the last 20 years in California, this is a solid rust free car. Solid cowl, solid floor pans and solid trunk floor. The original color of the car is white. In 2020 the car was painted OEM color 1964 Chrysler Formal Black. The engine compartment, doorjambs and under side of the body panels were all painted. It’s hard to tell this is a color change car unless you look at the fender tag. The windshield is a new AMD unit with correct Chrysler star on it and new gasket. The rear window also has a new gasket, and all the weather-strip and windlace were replaced. The gas tank was replaced with a new Superior gas tank and fuel sender. When the car was painted, sound deadener was added under the carpet and behind the door panels. All the windows roll up and down with ease.
Engine – The original 383 has been rebuilt. Keith Black KB162-30 Hypereutectic pistons, Lunati 60300 cam (very mild) and lifters, Cloyes true roller timing chain. Edelbrock E-street heads, aluminum water pump, aluminum water pump housing, vintage Edelbrock DP4B intake manifold, Edelbrock AVS2 with electric choke (not currently hooked up) carburetor, Mopar Performance electronic ignition with Jacobs coil. Engine mounts are Schumacher urethane units.
Transmission – 1967 HP 727 (from ’67 GTX) rebuilt with a later model stock valve body and part throttle kick-down (PTK) and Gil Younger shift kit, TCI Streetfighter torque convertor, Denny’s driveshaft. The transmission downshifts on it’s own and is a great performer. I went with a '67 GTX 727 for two reasons. #1 to get rid of the ball and trunion drive line. #2 for the stronger planetary gears.
Exhaust – OEM HP exhaust manifolds, TTI 2 ½” exhaust with Thrush turbo mufflers.
Electrical – 100 amp Tuf Stuff Alternator, dual field restoration wiring harness and Interstate battery.
Rearend – The housing and tapered axels were replaced with OEM 1969 units. Center section is the original Sure Grip with 3.23 gears.
Steering, Brakes, Suspension and Wheels – Firm Feel power steering gear and rebuilt original Federal Pump. Strange Engineering master cylinder, stock Mopar 11” disc brakes 2 ½” wide rear drums. Moog suspension with urethane bushings and KYB shocks. 1970 K-member (for improved sway bar design) with Addco sway bar. New Firm Feel Hemi torsion bars, new HD leaf springs and HD shackles from Just Suspension. 15”x8” steel wheels, Mickey Thompson 255/60/15 tires.
Interior – The interior is for the most part all original. The front and rear seats all need to be replaced as they are original. The headliner is original and still intact. The dash pad has some cracks out at the edges. The carpet is not original, but could stand to be replaced as well. The package tray is new. Auto Meter water temperature and oil pressure aftermarket gauges. Tachometer in the console is an AutoMeter styled for the period. The circuit board for the dash has been replaced with a brand new unit, upgraded LED dash lights and turn signals function as they should. The radio does not work.
Asking $28k and will entertain trades for the right '67 Dart GT.
$28,000 · San Jose, CA
1964 Dodge charger
Mopar Cars Or Parts Wanted Or Forsale
Todd Rhynes · onosretdpS 12 h 8861aictn9PftfuaJ:70ue5M4g0g3uii ·
FB has no selection for a Polara, so I had to list it as a "Charger".
Body – Being from southern Washington, and the last 20 years in California, this is a solid rust free car. Solid cowl, solid floor pans and solid trunk floor. The original color of the car is white. In 2020 the car was painted OEM color 1964 Chrysler Formal Black. The engine compartment, doorjambs and under side of the body panels were all painted. It’s hard to tell this is a color change car unless you look at the fender tag. The windshield is a new AMD unit with correct Chrysler star on it and new gasket. The rear window also has a new gasket, and all the weather-strip and windlace were replaced. The gas tank was replaced with a new Superior gas tank and fuel sender. When the car was painted, sound deadener was added under the carpet and behind the door panels. All the windows roll up and down with ease.
Engine – The original 383 has been rebuilt. Keith Black KB162-30 Hypereutectic pistons, Lunati 60300 cam (very mild) and lifters, Cloyes true roller timing chain. Edelbrock E-street heads, aluminum water pump, aluminum water pump housing, vintage Edelbrock DP4B intake manifold, Edelbrock AVS2 with electric choke (not currently hooked up) carburetor, Mopar Performance electronic ignition with Jacobs coil. Engine mounts are Schumacher urethane units.
Transmission – 1967 HP 727 (from ’67 GTX) rebuilt with a later model stock valve body and part throttle kick-down (PTK) and Gil Younger shift kit, TCI Streetfighter torque convertor, Denny’s driveshaft. The transmission downshifts on it’s own and is a great performer. I went with a '67 GTX 727 for two reasons. #1 to get rid of the ball and trunion drive line. #2 for the stronger planetary gears.
Exhaust – OEM HP exhaust manifolds, TTI 2 ½” exhaust with Thrush turbo mufflers.
Electrical – 100 amp Tuf Stuff Alternator, dual field restoration wiring harness and Interstate battery.
Rearend – The housing and tapered axels were replaced with OEM 1969 units. Center section is the original Sure Grip with 3.23 gears.
Steering, Brakes, Suspension and Wheels – Firm Feel power steering gear and rebuilt original Federal Pump. Strange Engineering master cylinder, stock Mopar 11” disc brakes 2 ½” wide rear drums. Moog suspension with urethane bushings and KYB shocks. 1970 K-member (for improved sway bar design) with Addco sway bar. New Firm Feel Hemi torsion bars, new HD leaf springs and HD shackles from Just Suspension. 15”x8” steel wheels, Mickey Thompson 255/60/15 tires.
Interior – The interior is for the most part all original. The front and rear seats all need to be replaced as they are original. The headliner is original and still intact. The dash pad has some cracks out at the edges. The carpet is not original, but could stand to be replaced as well. The package tray is new. Auto Meter water temperature and oil pressure aftermarket gauges. Tachometer in the console is an AutoMeter styled for the period. The circuit board for the dash has been replaced with a brand new unit, upgraded LED dash lights and turn signals function as they should. The radio does not work.
Asking $28k and will entertain trades for the right '67 Dart GT.
$28,000 · San Jose, CA
1964 Dodge charger
I could go up there for you, looks kike a nice solid California car....
He has it for sale in quite a few places. I'm surprised it isn't gone yet.
Looks like it needs some upholstery and that's about all.
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