Scaling a stock suspension car.

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Scampin

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Finally came into this century and bought a set of corner scales. My duster has always launched pretty well for what it is, but it always squats the right rear, and picks up the left front more. Looking at videos online of proper weights when scaling it usually is a four link or more adjustable suspension.
So what corner weights do you shoot for on a stock suspension and severely tire limited combo? Stock front suspension, /6 bars, Viking shocks, rear leafs and Vikings.
The car is front heavy (all steel body, full cast iron motor, full interior, full exhaust) lightened where I could but about 56% on the front. The way the car squats the right rear makes me think that there should be more static weight on the left rear? At what point do sacrifice shock travel for corner weights? When first on the scales, me in the car it was 19lbs heavier on right rear.
 
You can raise the right front to put more weight on the left rear on drop the left front to take a little weight off the right rear. But no idea where you want to be. 4 scale system?
 
I've done this on dirt cars. GEt it scaled as is and drop the left front. Think of scaling like a table with 4 legs. Try to take 50lbs out to start and see what it does. 10% change is about 78lbs.
 
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Salad? Yoga? I’m going to have mine at Empire.
 
I would add another leaf.....even if a weaker one......to the right rear
 
Yes ^^^^^ the rear sprAng department can also help here. The SS sprAngs are designed to eliminate this. What rear sprAngs do you have now? Of course getting the weights correct at each corner will only help even more. I'd like to know which scales you got. Can you show us?
 
To elaborate on what 67Dart273 said, in my experience, with the passenger side squatting and/or the driver side raising is an indication of the leaf springs wearing out. The process is slow and not readily noticeable, but may require a front shock/suspension adjustment to help it leave straight/level once the leaf springs are replaced.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yes ^^^^^ the rear sprAng department can also help here. The SS sprAngs are designed to eliminate this. What rear sprAngs do you have now? Of course getting the weights correct at each corner will only help even more. I'd like to know which scales you got. Can you show us?
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I bought the cheapest proform wired ones, from jegs with there discount it was around 750. Rear leaf springs are homoligation of a couple different ones, could definitely be part of the problem.
 
Scampin said:
I bought the cheapest proform wired ones, from jegs with there discount it was around 750. Rear leaf springs are homoligation of a couple different ones, could definitely be part of the problem.
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If you think about new sprAngs, I would not get the MP SS sprAngs. Call Mancini and actually TALK to them. Tell them what you have and that you don't want the MP springs, but some of their sprAngs. They will fix you up. I say that because the MP sprAngs are made in Mexico and the metallurgy is not consistent at all.
 
I have a race tomorrow, not going to get new springs by then.
I changed the torsion bars so the left rear has 70lbs more then the right and added two clicks of compression to the right rear. So this will be 90lbs more on left rear than the last time out...
 
Scampin said:
I have a race tomorrow, not going to get new springs by then.
I changed the torsion bars so the left rear has 70lbs more then the right and added two clicks of compression to the right rear. So this will be 90lbs more on left rear than the last time out...
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I bet that will make a difference! Just be ready for the change on launch. You might even try some test launches on the street "just to see".
 
furrystump said:
Salad? Yoga? I’m going to have mine at Empire.
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Rhett I finally got around to putting this on so you could have something new to look at..
PXL_20220618_232812757.MP.jpg
 
I tried to duplicate a SS spring set up. with adding some spring to car. 7 right and 5 left.
didn't have enough power to have made a difference any ways. Every one says the SS springs made the car ride stiff.
When i went to SS spring i thought i had a Cadillac. That was how stiff i made the rear suspension.

Have you taken it to the track? does it try to steer you one way or another at launch?
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you think about new sprAngs, I would not get the MP SS sprAngs. Call Mancini and actually TALK to them. Tell them what you have and that you don't want the MP springs, but some of their sprAngs. They will fix you up. I say that because the MP sprAngs are made in Mexico and the metallurgy is not consistent at all.
Click to expand...
I put the Mancini XHD springs on my 70' Dart (not a race car) years ago and can say they are very good quality if nothing has changed since then.
 
Yeah so!!!!! I get to see the front as I’m crossing the stripe and you are already on the return road!!! Whatevvvv….. what springs? :):):)!
 
A little late, was a very busy week. The track was prepped very well, it was hot but dry, corrected altitude was around 3k ft. 60's were off from it's best, but with the suspension changes I was finding throttle input had to be changed as well. Best pass was a 10.71@125.58 w/ 1.55 60'.
 
With leaf springs the body should be separating and pushing the tires into the track but its wanting to pull it down. That a great time with 1.55 60ft though. Definitely a 9 second car with a 1.40ish 60. IMHO.
 
Really Nice car !! Your video indicates Factory Stock like tire/Suspension traction-- weight transfer dynamics going on.....meaning bolt on some Slapper Traction Bars or get serious with some Real S/S leaf springs....Other than rolling forward & some rear body squat, Nothing much correct is happening....Is this Stock Appearing Class racing you're doing ? The vid shows a Very Light throttle hit & Way too Stiff torsion bar/ too much Shock absorber settings.....If that's a 10 sec 125 run, you got some Killer hp motor, Sleeper look goin on !!!
 
first of a disclaimer.
"I'm a educated idiot". ( read lots of sh*t..... applied vary little)
But i think you need a stiffer Right Rear spring or maybe more compression setting on the RR.
I agree there need to be more rear separation on launch.

Loosen up your extension on your rear shocks all the way........if it launches and then hops (goes into tire spin), Start slowing down the extension a couple clicks at a time.
This is a E body car and with SS Spring and the cheap MP/ Rancho shocks.
An under car video can tell you a lot.



Well i have no F ing idea why this video wont play........
Plays just fine on my u tube......don't know why it don't on here.

Does the videos have to go throught some time waiting now or is it just my U tube????
will try again with a longer video i have......
The first 30 sec is what i'm trying to show you on the rear seperation......if this video will load.


I don't know, it shows up on my phone but not on my computer, were i loaded it from:realcrazy:
I guess i will leave them up. and see if any/every one can see them.
 
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70rcode said:
Really Nice car !! Your video indicates Factory Stock like tire/Suspension traction-- weight transfer dynamics going on.....meaning bolt on some Slapper Traction Bars or get serious with some Real S/S leaf springs....Other than rolling forward & some rear body squat, Nothing much correct is happening....Is this Stock Appearing Class racing you're doing ? The vid shows a Very Light throttle hit & Way too Stiff torsion bar/ too much Shock absorber settings.....If that's a 10 sec 125 run, you got some Killer hp motor, Sleeper look goin on !!!
Click to expand...

Correct, stock appearing, factory suspension, reproduction bias ply tires, about 6" wide contact patch. Leaving at about 1500rpm and rolling in the throttle. I have found the tires need to be pushed much like a radial where there is an initial set then feed in the power to keep them set, but the line of feeding in the power and overpowering them is very fine.
 
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