Coil voltage

I assume this is OEM wiring?
I think "ready to run" varies, you need to follow their recommendation as to coil and ballast resistor if any. If you do NOT use a ballast you need to bypass the one in the car.

In OEM form, with either breaker points or Mopar electronic ignition, the coil will run somewhere from 6-10V with key on/ engine stopped. Running, and with charging system at nominal 14V "running" the coil should see 9-12 or so.

You need to check with whoever you got the dist/ coil from as to ballast

IF YOU USE a system with no ballast resistor, it is important to understand how the ignition switch works and how to handle the chage

Originally, the key feeds juice through the ballast, to the coil in the "run" position. This is normally dark blue, "IGN1" THIS CIRCUIT GOES DEAD WHEN CRANKING

Originally, there is a (usually brown) wire hooked to the coil + end of the ballast, IGN2 the bypass circuit. This comes from a separate, dedicated contact on the ign switch, and it's job is to supply good hot full battery voltage to the coil when cranking

So if you run a system with NO ballast, it is important to bypass the ballast. Use the original coil + wire to feed the coil and ignition

BUT THERE IS MORE. Poor connections, damage, and age in the wiring terminals can cause voltage drop from the key through bulkhead connector and to the ballast. There is MUCH written on this here on this board. This can cause overvoltage/ overcharge as well