A833 no shift
SOLVED!
I though I should post an update so here goes:
In one of my earlier posts (#19) I asked if anyone had the early crank register I.D. handy and got no response. I was thinking of searching out a roller bearing I might be able to use which after 50 years in Mech Engineering is no big deal. Then I noticed a sticky had been added at the top of this forum about modifying the Magnum style beating. As soon as I saw that, I ordered that roller bearing.
Meanwhile, I ordered a standard size 9-1/4" LUK clutch.(regular 3 finger not a diaphragm) The DC 10" was the one common part carried over from the car when I first got it on the road 5 yrs and 10,000 miles ago.
I put the car in the air with my new Quick Jack to remove the tranny. Working alone, I was able to drop the trans using an adaptor that replaced the cup on my old floor jack. (someone gave that to me more than 30 yrs ago but it was just too bulky to ever make use of) One of the large angle irons was more of a hindrance than a help so I took that off and cut a saddle out of a hunk of 2X4. Between the angle adjuster and floor jack it all worked out great.
I met my son at his place of business on a Saturday and using a lathe, we turned the O.D of the roller bearing down to 1.656.
I again carefully checked the BH bore runout with a dial indicator and was just over the limit of .008 TIR. I didn't have any offset dowels so I ordered a pair from Summit for store pickup. Jumped in my everyday driver and was back in a couple hours. Of course the diameter of the Summit offset dowels is .500 and Mopars require .496 so chucked them in a drill press and got them down to .496 with sandpaper. Checking at 3, 6, 9 and 12:00, I fiddled with those until I had the 3-6 measurement at .001 and the 3-9 at .005. I installed the roller bearing and clutch on Thursday after setting the dowels
Another important thing was I purchased a cut down input shaft from Brewers because the molded plastic disc aligning tool included with new clutches are way too sloppy when the pilot bushing is tight. In my case, the I.D. of the roller bearing. That really gave a precise fit allowing the disc to be well centered. The 10,000 mile T.O. bearing was dry and slightly rough so hopefully the new LUK part is better.
I was trying to get the car back on the road because I had pre-entered in the Junction Auto show on Sunday, 6-12. A car buddy came over Friday morning and we had the trans in by noon. He left right after it was in. He's OK for being a Chevy guy.
An interesting discovery was that the link between the Z-bar lower arm and clutch fork was now 3/4" too long. Trying to solve my problem, I had previously lengthened it after I got back from the /6 race in Clay City, KY 3 yrs ago. I also lengthened the 3-4 shift link by 2 turns.
So working alone, I put everything else together quitting at 9 PM Friday, a 12 hour day. I find it best to stop when tired to avoid accidents or screw-ups. That left only the shifter handle and boot to be installed which I did Sunday morning. I couldn't work Saturday because I had to attend a funeral that was 200 miles away.
So the moment of truth.
With the car on the ground, I started the engine in neutral, put the clutch in, and it went right into first! In fact any gear I wanted! I took a quick spin around the block and then came back to change clothes and headed for the car show at 10 AM, about 55 miles away. I found during the day that the shifting got even better as I put miles on it.
It's now been about 3 weeks and 400 miles so it's ready for the 320 mile trip to Carlisle in less than 2 weeks. I really think the HD 10" "taxi" clutch was a big part of the problem. Even after cutting the Z-bar and re-indexing the arm angles, and lengthening the clutch pedal from 5-1/4" to 6" to get more clutch departure, I only measured .050 clutch departure. And it was stiff so I worried the frame mount would give out. I tried to measure the new 9-1/4" clutch departure but the wavy spring in the disc made it difficult so up against the clock, I just buttoned it up and I'm calling it good.
This weekend is the Rock-n-race at Dragway 42 so I'll most likely make some fun runs. Previous best was 18.51 with the 3 speed column shift. Running that day really started to escalate the shifting issue. It just would not shift at higher rpms as the day went on, probably only 4000!
SOLVED!
I though I should post an update so here goes:
In one of my earlier posts (#19) I asked if anyone had the early crank register I.D. handy and got no response. I was thinking of searching out a roller bearing I might be able to use which after 50 years in Mech Engineering is no big deal. Then I noticed a sticky had been added at the top of this forum about modifying the Magnum style beating. As soon as I saw that, I ordered that roller bearing.
Meanwhile, I ordered a standard size 9-1/4" LUK clutch.(regular 3 finger not a diaphragm) The DC 10" was the one common part carried over from the car when I first got it on the road 5 yrs and 10,000 miles ago.
I put the car in the air with my new Quick Jack to remove the tranny. Working alone, I was able to drop the trans using an adaptor that replaced the cup on my old floor jack. (someone gave that to me more than 30 yrs ago but it was just too bulky to ever make use of) One of the large angle irons was more of a hindrance than a help so I took that off and cut a saddle out of a hunk of 2X4. Between the angle adjuster and floor jack it all worked out great.
I met my son at his place of business on a Saturday and using a lathe, we turned the O.D of the roller bearing down to 1.656.
I again carefully checked the BH bore runout with a dial indicator and was just over the limit of .008 TIR. I didn't have any offset dowels so I ordered a pair from Summit for store pickup. Jumped in my everyday driver and was back in a couple hours. Of course the diameter of the Summit offset dowels is .500 and Mopars require .496 so chucked them in a drill press and got them down to .496 with sandpaper. Checking at 3, 6, 9 and 12:00, I fiddled with those until I had the 3-6 measurement at .001 and the 3-9 at .005. I installed the roller bearing and clutch on Thursday after setting the dowels
Another important thing was I purchased a cut down input shaft from Brewers because the molded plastic disc aligning tool included with new clutches are way too sloppy when the pilot bushing is tight. In my case, the I.D. of the roller bearing. That really gave a precise fit allowing the disc to be well centered. The 10,000 mile T.O. bearing was dry and slightly rough so hopefully the new LUK part is better.
I was trying to get the car back on the road because I had pre-entered in the Junction Auto show on Sunday, 6-12. A car buddy came over Friday morning and we had the trans in by noon. He left right after it was in. He's OK for being a Chevy guy.
An interesting discovery was that the link between the Z-bar lower arm and clutch fork was now 3/4" too long. Trying to solve my problem, I had previously lengthened it after I got back from the /6 race in Clay City, KY 3 yrs ago. I also lengthened the 3-4 shift link by 2 turns.
So working alone, I put everything else together quitting at 9 PM Friday, a 12 hour day. I find it best to stop when tired to avoid accidents or screw-ups. That left only the shifter handle and boot to be installed which I did Sunday morning. I couldn't work Saturday because I had to attend a funeral that was 200 miles away.
So the moment of truth.
With the car on the ground, I started the engine in neutral, put the clutch in, and it went right into first! In fact any gear I wanted! I took a quick spin around the block and then came back to change clothes and headed for the car show at 10 AM, about 55 miles away. I found during the day that the shifting got even better as I put miles on it.
It's now been about 3 weeks and 400 miles so it's ready for the 320 mile trip to Carlisle in less than 2 weeks. I really think the HD 10" "taxi" clutch was a big part of the problem. Even after cutting the Z-bar and re-indexing the arm angles, and lengthening the clutch pedal from 5-1/4" to 6" to get more clutch departure, I only measured .050 clutch departure. And it was stiff so I worried the frame mount would give out. I tried to measure the new 9-1/4" clutch departure but the wavy spring in the disc made it difficult so up against the clock, I just buttoned it up and I'm calling it good.
This weekend is the Rock-n-race at Dragway 42 so I'll most likely make some fun runs. Previous best was 18.51 with the 3 speed column shift. Running that day really started to escalate the shifting issue. It just would not shift at higher rpms as the day went on, probably only 4000!
