Time to unveil "Project Blackstone"

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Found a new servo that is OH so much quieter. Will update tonight or tomorrow after it's installed (Hoping it lines up with the braketry already existing on the bottom/back plate...should be close)
 
Found a new servo that is OH so much quieter. Will update tonight or tomorrow after it's installed (Hoping it lines up with the braketry already existing on the bottom/back plate...should be close)
Yeah, I was gonna say certain servos are really noisy, especially digital models, and suggest you try an analog servo.
 
Yeah, I was gonna say certain servos are really noisy, especially digital models, and suggest you try an analog servo.

Servo #1 was digital and 100% noisy...the one in the video is analog and 50% noisy...just got a new one from Amazon and it's noise level is at 10%, so definately an improvement over both.
 
It's so nice! the "hitch" in the movement is greatly diminished, less noise when moving, and ZERO noise when at either position a or b. Honestly I'm absolutely thrilled. I have no engineering background, but have been able to get this far from scratch, having absolutely zero prior projects like this to look at that others have done. As far as I know this is the only thing like this in the world (maybe not, but as far as I know it is!). The fact that I've gotten it dry fit and working blows my mind.

Literally all that is left to do is to reprint the radio bracket a couple of times until I'm happy with it, then figure out the mounting in the dash. Long term I'll use the placement of this unit to help drive the rest of the 3d printing of the dashboard panels. enjoy the videos!


 
Haven't gotten around to reprinting the radio bracket yet, life getting in the way, but soon. Pretty sure I'm open to selling these. I'll have the Dart home around the end of August and can finally see exactly how it will fit in the dash, or if I need to put in in the custom center console (getting one anyway for the cupholders lol)

Other updates: ordered my custom latching switch to control this piece. Should be in the next week or so. Tested the functionality of Switch on...remove power to the whole thing...radio resets to old radio facing out. Seems like the current converter has just enough juice left in it for another push when the controller loses power. So anytime I turn off the dart, it will park on the old face showing. Turning it back on will automatically flip it back to the touchscreen, unless the button is unlatched. Of course with the car running or in ACC mode the switch will control the device whenever I need it to.

Last update for today: Ideally would like a wired remote control for this radio and Pioneer makes a 2" disk shaped one that should work. Considering another motorized reveal of that controller built into the custom console. To be operated by the same switch of course. I've got the mechanics mostly done in CAD...just still kicking it around in mah brain. Would toggle between the remote control and a speedhut clock gauge. Can't really think of something else that would complete the old school look and be useful in any way. Could be a voltage gauge or something, but a clock seems more appropriate for a center console
 
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... I don't have a lot of uses for a 500x500x500 printer, especially one that only prints in PLA.
PLA burns out on a BBQ right? Make some lost wax (PLA) castings of some weber 3X2 intakes for a slant. I need to get back to my community college to take a course on 3d modeling. All my CAD stuff was 2D AutoCad and VersaCad for my first year and I lost that decades ago.

 
PLA burns out on a BBQ right? Make some lost wax (PLA) castings of some weber 3X2 intakes for a slant. I need to get back to my community college to take a course on 3d modeling. All my CAD stuff was 2D AutoCad and VersaCad for my first year and I lost that decades ago.



PLA melts at 400f, I think most people who do lost PLA melt it out in the same furnace they melt the aluminum in. But 400 is plenty do-able on a bbq.

I downloaded a hobbyist copy of fusion 360 5 years ago when I got my first printer. I've used it for bunches of small/medium projects and I'm decent for a hobbyist at this point. I've even done some tooling for work, and we shipped a one off custom system last week that has a part I designed.

I'm bumping against my limit with this cluster replacement, but I found the fusion community support is great. Might be worth just jumping in and messing around.
 
awesome, that sounds like a better option as I know a little about autocad already.
 
PLA melts at 400f, I think most people who do lost PLA melt it out in the same furnace they melt the aluminum in. But 400 is plenty do-able on a bbq.

I downloaded a hobbyist copy of fusion 360 5 years ago when I got my first printer. I've used it for bunches of small/medium projects and I'm decent for a hobbyist at this point. I've even done some tooling for work, and we shipped a one off custom system last week that has a part I designed.

I'm bumping against my limit with this cluster replacement, but I found the fusion community support is great. Might be worth just jumping in and messing around.

So you're designing your own cluster? That's cool...I'm doing the same. I had made a protoype and had it printed in PLA a few years back to replace the entire gauge cluster, but the model had some issues and I've lost the original working file. Will be remaking the model now that I have Fusion, its much more capable than what I used in the past
 
So you're designing your own cluster? That's cool...I'm doing the same. I had made a protoype and had it printed in PLA a few years back to replace the entire gauge cluster, but the model had some issues and I've lost the original working file. Will be remaking the model now that I have Fusion, its much more capable than what I used in the past

Yeah, I've been picking away at it now and then for about a year. I'm sure that one of the CAD guys at work could do it in an afternoon, but hobbyist vs pro, so I've restarted a couple times after I felt I wasn't getting where I needed to be. I've printed it in 1/3's to test fit screw hole location and fit to the dash, still have some adjustments to make. I've been working from a cluster that was all cut up, picked up a unmolested one at carlisle to double check my dims against, see where I need to make adjustments.

Working on gauge placement too, that's why I have just the end gauges. I didn't bother to model the switches, just mounted them to the 1/3 on each end.

Cluster - 2022 - Branch (Messing Around) v3.png
 
Doing it in pieces is the way to go if you don't have a BigRep...At this point I'm pretty sure I'm going to 3d print my center console...I can only imagine how many pieces that's going to be with my biggest print dimension being 400mm
 
Doing it in pieces is the way to go if you don't have a BigRep...At this point I'm pretty sure I'm going to 3d print my center console...I can only imagine how many pieces that's going to be with my biggest print dimension being 400mm

Yeah, I'm probably going to do it in two pieces at work and glue them. Put a lap joint and some keys to keep it all aligned and use acetone. We have bigger printers (1000x600x600mm) but I don't have access to them. I can make it work as two pieces in the 350x250x350 volume of our lab printer. Work in progress, I'll wrap it up one of these days.
 
Been busy with work, and getting busier still, but the custom backlit button came in today that's gonna control the servo. I'm super happy with it...I wanted it to be a bit of a mystery as to what it does.

IMG_0165.jpg
 
The printer is busy printing something for work, but tomorrow I should be starting to print v2 of the bottom/back plate...I saw too much flex at the servo and I'm going to beef up it's mounting point. A couple of other small tweaks here and there. I was going to have to disassemble it to loctite the screws, so not much of a setback. After that prints I'll work on printing the radio bracket again
 
Ok new back piece has been printed, and is working well once reassembled. I also too the extra time to use heat set inserts instead of nuts to simplify assembly/disassembly...motor and electronics working well, its actually a little quieter than it was before. Now I'm in a holding pattern until the car comes home, hopefully in 2 weeks.

I think I'm going to hold off on printing a new radio bracket until my new printer arrives. It will print much faster and cleaner, and with water soluble supports, so I don't have to worry about quality and warping. That new printer likely won't arrive for at least a couple of months as it is new to market. Incidentally this will be the printer that I start using when I work on the 3d printed tail lights, and eventually the center console, dashboard, and potentially armrests and other things I would want to improve on.

Screen Shot 2022-08-13 at 3.49.26 PM.png
 
Test print was mostly a success! I have some corner curling which is hard to prevent with ABS, and I need to get my supports right. These were very difficult to take off safely. Also the interface between the support material and the part is not set right. It's basically impossible to tell where the support ends and the part begins...very challenging when dealing with a part that is printing like the shape of a table.

This is a usable piece though I already know of a tweak I want to make, so I will definately print another one...probably a few small test pieces before I do to figure out the supports. I had to cut off the ends of the knob stems, so there was nothing holding them in anymore, so I just used CA glue...the knobs won't turn but who cares.

Anyway, pics!View attachment 1715947075 View attachment 1715947076 View attachment 1715947077 View attachment 1715947078 View attachment 1715947079
Dude, that's Sick!!!!!!! WAY KILLER!!!!
 
Love the entire deal! The Old School, Original look, then POW! Modern Hi Fi attack! Really cool, your work is awesome and so is the theory involved!
 
Love the entire deal! The Old School, Original look, then POW! Modern Hi Fi attack! Really cool, your work is awesome and so is the theory involved!

Thanks Dude too kind! My goal with this car was always to have something with some details that nobody has done, and to have as many modern conveniences as possible, while keeping to the original aesthetic as much as I can!
 
Ok new back piece has been printed, and is working well once reassembled. I also too the extra time to use heat set inserts instead of nuts to simplify assembly/disassembly...motor and electronics working well, its actually a little quieter than it was before. Now I'm in a holding pattern until the car comes home, hopefully in 2 weeks.

I think I'm going to hold off on printing a new radio bracket until my new printer arrives. It will print much faster and cleaner, and with water soluble supports, so I don't have to worry about quality and warping. That new printer likely won't arrive for at least a couple of months as it is new to market. Incidentally this will be the printer that I start using when I work on the 3d printed tail lights, and eventually the center console, dashboard, and potentially armrests and other things I would want to improve on.

View attachment 1715972122

Love the work. Nice to see someone in the hobby really putting 3d printing to work. Update when you get the new printer. I've been watching it, I'd really like to see some feedback from an actual user.
 
This is too cool. If you could 3D print dash bezels that have an A/C delete, you could make some $$. These things are like finding hen's teeth.

51854231021-6fd54036b3-w.jpg
 
I could print that, but I wouldn't want to take on the task of post processing it (sanding and paint). How much is the real deal?

It's a matter of finding them. I paid $200 for this 1.5 years ago. I haven't seen one since and I check weekly on eBay and the other Mopar sites. Took me a year of searching to nab this one.

I'm sure there's a pretty large market of guys that do not have A/C in their cars, but are forced to keep the stock bezel. I would have been one of them had I not found this.
 
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