How Fat can I go you say?

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I8NEMO

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2019
Messages
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Location
Phoenix, AZ
Before the decision to tear this car down I spent 13 years avoiding it, all the while looking at 100's of Gen II Barracudas, what stances I liked things I liked and disliked about the car and what wheels I thought would compliment what I had in mind. When I found the Year One Rallye the wheel search ended. These wheels are 1 piece cast aluminum with a powder coated center section. I particularly like the machined/clear coated rim section. After work began I gravitated into a lot of unplanned custom work but all with a flavor of what I thought Ma Mopar may have spun back in the day.

Front Wheels are 17" x 9" with 235 x 45zr 17 Road Huggers right now.
Rear Wheels are 17" x widened to 12" with 390 x 40 x17 M and H Drag Radials. These Racemasters have a section width of 14.3"

Once I decided I could make the drag radials fit without a full tub, the cars stance and suspension and even rear fenders were built around these tires. In my opinion, the Gen II Barracudas needed a little more ooompf in the rear, by that I mean I wanted to get closer to the form pushing a form coke bottle magic of the 68/69 Charger, E Body Cuda's and Challengers I mean these little A body's are beautiful and curvy and I thought I could improve a part of it just a little. So, oompf, in my mind meant very wide tires out back with some sidewall, not rubber bands and more rear fender distance from top of fender to top of tire. Dropping and sectioning the rear fender lips hid more rubber and combined with the drag radials gave the rear of the car a stronger presence.

So if you're wondering how much tire can be stuffed in an A body with just a mini tub I think this is pretty close to the max. I have about 5/8" clearance at the frame and about a finger width at fenders with no rubbing issues whatsoever. This look came at a price and 100's of hours of work, here is what is required:

Mini Tub, Spring relocate with spring box abutted to the inside of the outer frame walls. This approach gets about another inch or so of tire clearance vs centering the perch box under the frame rail. Diff Housing and axles shortened .75" each end, spring perch pads moved inboard, Wheels widened to 12", Rear fender lips lowered 2.25" and sectioned, new "383" leaves de-arched 1.5", 1" lowering block.
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I got up to about 283, but I'm losin again.
 
Are the exhaust cut-outs in the rear valance for show only? I see no way of running the exhaust out to those tips.
 
I wondered if anyone would catch it. The factory fuel tank is temporary, plans for in- trunk fuel cell in the future. When the car is back on the rotisserie I'll be channeling each side of the spare well to make room for pipes.
 
I wondered if anyone would catch it. The factory fuel tank is temporary, plans for in- trunk fuel cell in the future. When the car is back on the rotisserie I'll be channeling each side of the spare well to make room for pipes.
I only caught it because I went thru the same deal on my dart. I chose to go with 10" wide rims to still be able to run the exhaust out the back, but could have gotten 12" wide wheels underneath it.
 
I wondered if anyone would catch it. The factory fuel tank is temporary, plans for in- trunk fuel cell in the future. When the car is back on the rotisserie I'll be channeling each side of the spare well to make room for pipes.
Hell yeah that'll look tough.
 
Nice work! :thumbsup:

I really wish Year One would offer their 17" replica wheels with more backspace for the front. With your current ride height you'll probably be ok, but if they made those wheels with another 1/2" of backspace up front they'd sell a lot more to A-body owners.
 
I wish those wheels from Year One fit cars with Wilwood brakes. Unfortunately the hub bore appears to be too small.
 
Nice work! :thumbsup:

I really wish Year One would offer their 17" replica wheels with more backspace for the front. With your current ride height you'll probably be ok, but if they made those wheels with another 1/2" of backspace up front they'd sell a lot more to A-body owners.
Thanks, I agree Bryan 100%. I'd love to see Y.O. offer other widths and diameters as well.
 
I wish those wheels from Year One fit cars with Wilwood brakes. Unfortunately the hub bore appears to be too small.
I wonder if a place like Weldcraft could expand that center hole? I bought the wheels before anything else and displayed one in my office to incentivize me to get off my ***. The BBP forced DB change up front, which spun into tubular A arms, sway bar, 11" shoes out back. Damn those wheels lol.
 
That car looks awesome. Nice work. Is there any room to lower the rear a little more? Maybe more of a level stance?
 
I wonder if a place like Weldcraft could expand that center hole? I bought the wheels before anything else and displayed one in my office to incentivize me to get off my ***. The BBP forced DB change up front, which spun into tubular A arms, sway bar, 11" shoes out back. Damn those wheels lol.

Depending on what the actual wheel construction looks like any machine shop may be able to open up the center bore some. I had to do that with my Enkei RPF1’s, they start at a 73.1mm bore but taper to a 64mm cap, and the mopar hubs go all the way through the wheel to about even with the outer face, plus the grease cap that sticks out further.

So I had my local machine shop bore them all the way through at 73.1mm. It looks like the YR rallyes are just flat around the center bore, so, they should be able to be opened up some to accommodate for a larger bore. I dunno about all the way out to 3.1” for those Wilwood hubs, but some at least.

I’d just skip the Wilwoods anyway, there’s nothing special about the 4 piston Wilwood calipers and a 3.1” hub diameter eliminates a lot of wheels.
 
That car looks awesome. Nice work. Is there any room to lower the rear a little more? Maybe more of a level stance?
I haven't measured top of tire to top of inner fender but I think so. I wasn't thrilled with a lowering block to begin with so, I could certainly drop it more with a taller block and I've played around with weight in the trunk too. Personally I'm not after level, I like some rake in the car kind of a pro street nod. Never say never though right?
 
I haven't measured top of tire to top of inner fender but I think so. I wasn't thrilled with a lowering block to begin with so, I could certainly drop it more with a taller block and I've played around with weight in the trunk too. Personally I'm not after level, I like some rake in the car kind of a pro street nod. Never say never though right?
It’s personal preference really and if you’re happy with it that’s all that matters. If it were mine I’d try to get that thing way down because that’s what I like. Either way you did really nice body work and the car looks great.
 
It’s personal preference really and if you’re happy with it that’s all that matters. If it were mine I’d try to get that thing way down because that’s what I like. Either way you did really nice body work and the car looks great.
Agreed, Thanks much for the Kudos sir!
 
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