Inputs on a home built 318 for red light to red light fun

Dan the man said
You don't want to use dome pistons.

Why? If you point to flame front travel with the dome I’d say that’s a good reason but it can be milled down. Sometimes the dome is a necessary evil that can be worked around/ignored.

You'd be better off with having your block zero deck. I don't think that you can run a 0.027" thick gasket. I think that you would be better off with a quench distance of 0.039". Having the block decked and squared is a good idea too. Quality machine work and parts are important. I don't know why you want to spin your 318 to 7,500 rpm's, for some reason everyone thinks that you have to spin it to make power, not true. Your combination is all mismatched, big carburetor, you didn't mention a intake manifold and the cylinder heads have way to little valves and ports for your intended goal. From what I've read on your op, I think that you would be happier if you built your engine for better throttle response and low to midrange torque, I say this because you didn't mention that you were building a race car.

He mentioned 7.99 in the 1-8 which is about equal to a mid 12-1/4 mile car. Not exactly race but he did say light to light ….. sounds like racing vs your pedestrian granny ride.

Dan the man said
Magnum heads would increase the cost of the build as they have to be checked for cracks and the cost of a magnum only intake manifold.

The heads come remanufactured. Crack checks done.
The Magnum inky intake is a draw back limited to the chink knock offs, Edelbrock’s RPM or the super hard to find and most likely outrageously priced MP-M1 series of intakes. There is also the Indy single plane intake.

I was lead to believe that the 302 heads are no longer available, does rock auto have them?

A head I wouldn’t use.

Dan the man said
From what I understand what the op is wanting to do, I think that a 500 - 600 cfm carburetor would be good along with a good dual plane intake.

More carb would be better. Can you run a 12 second 1/4 with a 600? Sure! Will you run faster with a 750? Hell yea!

302 heads with a good comp valve job and back cut the valve's. Cam wise I'd say a 340 or similar cam.

Your really selling him short!

Have the block decked so pistons are at zero deck height, good quench will help with detonation. I'm thinking that if he builds as he posted that he will be disappointed. He would need at least a 3500 stall converter for the cam he would need to spin 7500 and now he would have transmission heat problems.

I don’t know how you come to that conclusion but that is all 100% false and shows you know nothing on what your writing about.

Dan the man said
Thanks. I've been reading and paying attention what you guys recommend

I don’t think so! Not one bit! Not even close!