318 power?

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HP2 said:
318 LA block
340 crank
KB pistons
zero decked
10.45:1 CR
Edelbrock 6077 heads, untouched
273 adjustable rockers
MP hyd 292/292 .508/.508 108 LS (I'm not quite sure about the cam but after some measuring and calculation it is my best guess)
Weiand Stealth intake w/ 1" spacer
Quick Fuel 750 dp (best I had)
MP elec dist - limited to 10 deg advance, lightest springs I could find
MSD 6AL
Put it together mostly from parts I already had. Hopefully start up today. Will go into my 71 Duster this weekend.
Car has fiberglass bumpers and hood, rest is original.
MT ET Street 295/55R15
Have a 10" (3.000 stall?) converter. Will look closer when I get there, might have some other I can use.
904 w/ reverse pattern. Not a clue of internals...
8 3/4" 4.10 SG

How much power do you gentlemen think it will make?
What do you think it can do on 1/8-mile?
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I don’t like that cam in small blocks- I ran a 318 Duster years ago with similar enough components gears and converter to make it comparable and went low 8’s with a 268/272 .450/.455 mp cam. 7.20’s with a 312/.590, victor 340, very loose Fairbanks 8” converter and 4.88’s. The same car went 6.80-6.90 with a 340 short block with the same cam/heads/intake and some Arias pistons from the 70’s
 
Big block v small block engine wt & how it affects the car, handling etc.
Percentages gentlemen......
Take a 3500 lb car with a SB that has a 54/46% weight distribution [ pretty typical ], 54 being the front.
That is 1890lbs over the front wheels. You replace the SB with a 100 lb heavier BB. The front end weight has increased by 5.3%.
Is anybody's butt-meter going to feel that? Weight distribution change is even less 55.3/44.7.
 
Mopar_Joe20 said:
I don’t like that cam in small blocks- I ran a 318 Duster years ago with similar enough components gears and converter to make it comparable and went low 8’s with a 268/272 .450/.455 mp cam. 7.20’s with a 312/.590, victor 340, very loose Fairbanks 8” converter and 4.88’s. The same car went 6.80-6.90 with a 340 short block with the same cam/heads/intake and some Arias pistons from the 70’s
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That first one is a really, REALLY good cam. Very overlooked, imo.
 
HP2 said:
That's pretty impressive. Auto or manual? What cam and intake? At what rpm did it peak?
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Well it floated the valves at 5200 and is where the power peak was, its not together anymore but those heads with better springs pull way past that on my 340 now. It used the Hughes .491/.500 roller cam, out of the box RPM intake. I was using this infront of a 727 w/ 3500 shelf converter on a 4.56 gear. It saddens me that the block cracked in the winter because I could have made it run alot stronger than it was with springs and rebuilding the frontend that was squalling the front tires from mid track on.
 
Wtf? Been shifting between different mounts but couldn’t find a perfect fit. Finally got it in there. Thought it was okay until now. Been working with big blocks and never experienced this. Now what? Tranny and engine together and everything else in place, only thing left for start is flexplate to converter when I find this gap! Solution??

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06238DE5-17AF-4327-837C-18EA5E31BF9D.jpeg
 
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HP2 said:
Wtf? Been shifting between different mounts but couldn’t find a perfect fit. Finally got it to fit. Thought it was okay until now. Been working with big blocks and never experienced this. Now what? Tranny and engine together and everything else in place, only thing left for start is flexplate to converter when I find this gap! Solution??

View attachment 1715959844

View attachment 1715959845
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Slide the converter back
 
Didn’t @12many have a thread about using washers to set the converter gap at about 1/8th inch or something like that?!?!
 
I wouldn't have done that. Bolt the flex plate solid to the converter.
You're supposed to have some give in there, the slots shouldn't be bottomed on the drive lugs in the trans front pump.
On any Mopar. Not just small blocks. If you bolt a motor to a trans and you DON'T have to pull the converter forward to meet the flex plate then you will have problems!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Thanks for the babes.
To answer your question. It is because he is messing with what he has and/or he wants to build a 318.
By following your logic, you show yourself as a hypocrite because of what is written below.

Just help the man build the 318!


Exactly! The freakin guy is messing with a 318, for anyone that doesn’t help him build a 318, STFU & walk away from the thread.
You non helping guys suggesting for a bigger and cheaper engine (340/360) are hypocrites and if you follow your own logic, you would have suggested something along the lines of an Indy max block and said stroke that till it hurts for the biggest and baddest displacement possible!

Everyone knows bigger is better for more power but do you all have to really hammer every 318 thread?

Why is it you can’t just help the guy with what he’s got?
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I always loved the Build a 318 and go out and just KICK some A mentality and wait for the other guy to argue Profusely about being beaten by one, They can't accept that fact until you show them the stamping and casting on the block !!! It ultimately HAD to be a 340 but then what the hey, it's basically the same block. What works for the one works for the other, just like building a 307 or 327 or 350 Cheby, or any of the other SB's out there. There's been plenty of super fast 283's, 289's, AMC 290 and 304's 343's, Buick's and Pontiacs of small sizes,
 
The way this often goes is, with this type of thread........ when there isn’t any follow up......... it’s usually because there was some “disappointment” involved.
Maybe not this time........ and perhaps the OP will catch everyone up.
 
Hahaha in other words people believe the magazines too much and don't just slap together a 400 hp engine willy nilly?
 
Mean416 said:
Hahaha in other words people believe the magazines too much and don't just slap together a 400 hp engine willy nilly?
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I'm gonna keep poking Rat and Lead69 to build a 500hp 318 with the spare parts they have laying around. :D
I'm thinking those guys could come real close. :poke:
 
Yep! In the world of N/A 318s, Even with a 4 inch bore for 333 cubic inches on a stock stroke, you’ll have to make 1.5hp/c.i for 500hp. I’m thinking methanol, W2 or W5, and 13+:1…
Lately, I really been wanting to put together a 333 incher from an ‘89 industrial hydraulic roller block with a steel crank, worked 974 iron heads and a 6-71.
 
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yeahbut, since we're kicking the 318 can around until OP shows up;

if yur gonna go 4.00, you might as well move up for less machining costs, and most likely stiffer cylinder walls. and if you do that .................... I ain't saying it.
But you know, stroke it right away?
3.94 x3.79= 370 and now you got something to work with, maybe still on the cheaper side, and 370 is a pretty good size for a streeter. With a 4bbl and headers that could make around 300 hp with the 318 cam/top end, lol, but have big-torque. By 220@.050 with big-port iron heads, and a little attention to DCR,
she would be pumping out way more power and torque than the factory chassis can handle.

If I ever build again, Ima going ~4.04 x3.79 =389.... just cuz 389 sounds Ram-tuff, lol. Thats 6% bigger than I now have (367), so;
I'll be able to drop back a cam-size or two (from 230@.050 to in the range of 223 to 218).
And I'll be able to drop a gear size in the back (from 3.55 to 3.23)
And with my alloy heads, and say a Dcr of 9.35ish, and overdrive,
I'll be blowing by gas-stations from morning 'til night ........ again.
Maybe I'll try my 2.94s again and if not too lazy, then I could sell my GVod.
Hyup, I have convinced myself. Except for the fact that
I have this stack of 340 blocks in the shed........ lessee
4.04 x3.79 is 389..... and I got these used 2.02 alloy heads, and a few years ago I got a screaming deal on a Dual-Port, and I got this sweetheart Thermoquad still on my winter318..... so all I really need is, well waitasec, my current 367 already is at 4.04, and has nice KB pistons in it, I wonder....... how cheap can I actually slam this together for..... lol
OKay then, who's got a 3.79 to trade.
OK kidding, shipping is killer.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Yep! In the world of N/A 318s, Even with a 4 inch bore for 333 cubic inches on a stock stroke, you’ll have to make 1.5hp/c.i for 500hp. I’m thinking methanol, W2 or W5, and 13+:1…
Lately, I really been wanting to put together a 333 incher from an ‘89 industrial hydraulic roller block with a steel crank, worked 974 iron heads and a 6-71.
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Seems excessive, it's down to the heads

Here's 3 500 hp 5.3l LS, yes I know a 318 ain't a LS but put similar top end on it and it won't know the difference. 5.3 guy's wish they had a 3.91 bore.

 
273 said:
Here's 3 500 hp 5.3l LS, yes I know a 318 ain't a LS but put similar top end on it and it won't know the difference.
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That’s the whole thing right there! BAMM! BINGO!

And this is where guys cry & whine like bitches on their periods.
They don’t want to out a good top end on there ride because it’s to much money. They cheap out and grab a lesser head on Black Friday then stick a wimpy wimpy wimpy cam in it and cry a river that their **** is slow under powered and gets freaked by a 4 banger Hyundai. Also heaven forbid you tell’em that a good ratio is a bit more than 10.5-1 they freak wondering where there going to get gasoline to fuel this ultra drag race engine at!

The LS has excellent heads (only being out done buy the expensive HEMI) allowing for much larger camshaft lifts so it can breath. Also being made like crazy makes them cheap and affordable to use.
 
I don’t know if you’ll need 240 @050 but that’s what I would do. Also more lift. The TF heads flow very well so IMO, use what ever you can get away with and let’er rip!
 
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