Do or DONT fiberglass body parts

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VeryValiantVellow

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Glasstek out of Ill has a ton of fiberglass for 66 Valiant/Baracudas. Question is this: I've been thinking about bumpers and hood, maybe rear deck even possibly fenders. Anyone used their stuff? Also, if I wanted to reinforce the bumpers so they don't blow in the wind, anyone with experience doing that with their products? Only a couple grand for the whole batch. My stuff is in good shape. In fact real good shape except for the bumpers. They could use chrome and a shop on the east coast of fla does good work. Just s l o w.
Your 2 cents is valued.
VeryValiantVellow.
One last thought. I may sell the valiant when I'm through. I've got 35-40 k in it and every possible part replaced along with a stroked 340. Never even been out of the driveway yet. Is it worth much since it isn't a perfect paint job?
 
Two things. 1). If it's what YOU want. 2). If you can deal with the FACT that NO fiberglass parts will EVER fit like factory sheet metal. If both those pass muster with you, go for it.
 
I can accept that. But I do want a 'fair chance' to start with a decently crafted product and it is possible the car will hit the market so I want it to be...marketable to the largest number of interested potential buyers.
 
I can accept that. But I do want a 'fair chance' to start with a decently crafted product and it is possible the car will hit the market so I want it to be...marketable to the largest number of interested potential buyers.
There's a thread in here about Stinger fiberglass. Try searching it. Did our member really crappy, IMO. So be careful. Maybe post a thread asking about member's experiences and which company they chose.
 
I don't own any fiberglass parts currently but I do plan on getting some in the future so I can't speak from real experience, but the general consensus I seem to get from online reading is that A: you get what you pay for. B: No matter what, you will have to do some custom fitting for your particular car. C. In general if your car lives outside then you should probably stay with steel, and if your car sleeps indoors then the fiberglass should last you a long time.
 
One last thought. I may sell the valiant when I'm through. I've got 35-40 k in it and every possible part replaced along with a stroked 340. Never even been out of the driveway yet. Is it worth much since it isn't a perfect paint job?
You have about 37.5K in a 66 Valiant, I like 66 Valiants. However, even with a good paint job, you will lose money on that car. Even with a stroked 340 in it, it may not be an easy sell. And with a paint job that is not perfect (whatever that means) it will be far harder to get a decent price. I wish you good luck.
 
My personal opinion only......
If it's a street car, and standard weight (not seriously lightened in other areas) I would stick with steel.
If it's a serious street strip car, where a couple tenths of a second mean something, and it's been lightened in other ways.... sure, go for the fiberglass.
From a resale viewpoint, the above still applies. If I'm buying a street car from you, I'd want quality steel (but not necessarily perfect chrome bumpers).
If I'm buying a car to race, light is right, and glass is good.
As for the glass you are looking at, I would start with the hood, most weight reduction for one piece, then bumpers (lots cheaper than new chrome here. LOTS!). If you have a Valiant, then yes on the deck lid, barracuda maybe not.
Fenders, to me, are a no. The weight savings is small, the grief is large, and so is the expense.
To me, fiberglass makes sense on a light car only. Save two hundred pounds on a 4400lb hellcat? So what. Save two hundred pounds on a 2700 lb fox mustang? Now that makes sense.
Again, my opinion only.
 
My personal opinion only......
If it's a street car, and standard weight (not seriously lightened in other areas) I would stick with steel.
If it's a serious street strip car, where a couple tenths of a second mean something, and it's been lightened in other ways.... sure, go for the fiberglass.
From a resale viewpoint, the above still applies. If I'm buying a street car from you, I'd want quality steel (but not necessarily perfect chrome bumpers).
If I'm buying a car to race, light is right, and glass is good.
As for the glass you are looking at, I would start with the hood, most weight reduction for one piece, then bumpers (lots cheaper than new chrome here. LOTS!). If you have a Valiant, then yes on the deck lid, barracuda maybe not.
Fenders, to me, are a no. The weight savings is small, the grief is large, and so is the expense.
To me, fiberglass makes sense on a light car only. Save two hundred pounds on a 4400lb hellcat? So what. Save two hundred pounds on a 2700 lb fox mustang? Now that makes sense.
Again, my opinion only.
331MP
Very thoughtful and I will seriously consider your observations. I am concerned about the need or lack thereof for reinforcing the bumpers to keep them rigid.
 
35-40K in it now. IMO you'll never get that back out of it. Not bein cynical, just realistic. If your goal is to flip, better stop where you are right now. They just don't bring that kinda money.
 
35-40K in it now. IMO you'll never get that back out of it. Not bein cynical, just realistic. If your goal is to flip, better stop where you are right now. They just don't bring that kinda money.
My goodness, no. I built it for me. But from the time I started till now the left knee quit on me. Cant clutch and drive a stick. So probably take the losses and sell it but would like to see better than 15k for it. Plus pushing my 80th and figure...well you know.
 
My goodness, no. I built it for me. But from the time I started till now the left knee quit on me. Cant clutch and drive a stick. So probably take the losses and sell it but would like to see better than 15k for it. Plus pushing my 80th and figure...well you know.
Ok, from your previous posts, I didn't think you were oblivious to the valuation of these cars. I love the "I built it for me". That's always my attitude, because I love the car or cars I have at the time. I don't go into it keeping track of every penny like I may sell it one day....and that's probably my downfall. LOL
 
I believe this is there hood and it's not right for a 66. I base that on they are one of the only people that offer it and the picture of the subframe is identical to what is on my hood.
I put some glass front fenders on my son's Duster. The fit was a little rough but they were better than the factory sheetmetal we had. Only reason to do that on a street car.

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331MP
Very thoughtful and I will seriously consider your observations. I am concerned about the need or lack thereof for reinforcing the bumpers to keep them rigid.
Unless you are planning to race the car just keep the steel. I helped a friend who built a Shelby fast back mustang and raced it a few years back in Drag Week. It was a royal PITA to make to look like it wasn't what it was, and by that I mean wavy fiberglass. Sure some brands may be better but if you have steel I would say spend the money straightening that. If it wasn't a race car I was buying, I would walk away from a car with fiberglass panels.
 
$35-40k in a ‘66 Valiant? You blew past any cost to value roadblocks about $20k ago.

What is the car about? Race car?

A fiberglass hood is one thing but once you start putting fenders, bumpers and a deck lid on you’re crossing the line into dedicated race car territory.

Couple points - ‘glass bumpers are tough to chrome and (IMO) look terrible when painted. ‘glass fenders will take a LOT if work to make them look like regular factory steel ones. Headlight mounts or any trim will have to be put in. How do you plan to attach the hood and deck lid? Keeping the hinges or pin-on? If keeping the hinges it’s almost pointless to go with ‘glass since the hinges account for a lot of weight.

This car would have to be something special to get even half your investment back. The market for expensive, modified ‘66 Valiants is going to be pretty small.
 
I'm going fiberglass with aluminum brackets and painting the chrome on using Alsa's system.

Easy Chrome - The World's Most Exotic Finishes

I've used this stuff before and it lays down perfectly. My stock bumpers were beat to Hell when I got the car, so I'm taking them off and keeping them in storage along with the stock hood. When I eventually sell the car, everything will go with it.

I was quoted $1400/set to restore my stock bumpers + shipping. My choice was based on $$ and I like my street cars as light as possible. If the stock bumpers were in better shape, my decision would probably be different
 
IMHO

You're pushing 80, why do anything to the car now. Get an assist on the clutch or have an automatic swapped in and enjoy the car.

Perhaps enlist a friend or family member to be the driver

Or better yet find a kid in the neighborhood and take him or her under your wing and teach the things not tought today. Then will the car to the kid.

A lot of good memories can be had.
 
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Some very interesting replies. You have my gratitude. I agree with the combination of points you've made; just didn't want to admit that
I'd come to the end of building. I've done other rods but that was years ago. This one was supposed to be the last one and so, like most
other people, I wanted it 'finished' right. Think I'll try to drive it....or get a driver then set in the sun and just listen to it. Thank you all.
 
I know it's an E Body. However, I cut up a shaker hood and scoop. I stretched the fiberglass hood opening and scoop length 3", raised the scoop 4-1/2" taller and opened up the scoop nostrils 2-1/2" taller to clear my high rise Indy tunnel ram, with two 1050 Dominators and two NOS Fogger Nitrous kits.

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This car has all glass parts . The window go up and down the deck lid is lift off and the headlights are attached. Car weighs 2600 with a cast iron BB and Auto trans. The doors work perfect and the last time I looked there was no Rust LOL. The Bumpers are painted gray but we can get them chromed.

I bought all race weight parts for the Demon from Glasstek. One piece nose, hood, doors, Decklid, Rear bumper , and Dash. All came in one crate. Very nice parts ,Body lines are crisp. Molded in bumper and grille are perfect.

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My goodness, no. I built it for me. But from the time I started till now the left knee quit on me. Cant clutch and drive a stick. So probably take the losses and sell it but would like to see better than 15k for it. Plus pushing my 80th and figure...well you know.
I like your attitude. You built it for yourself and aren't worried about how much you have in it. If you still like the car, please consider this. convert it to an automatic and ENJOY it. The value of the stick shift stuff will greatly offset the conversion cost.
 
This car has all glass parts . The window go up and down the deck lid is lift off and the headlights are attached. Car weighs 2600 with a cast iron BB and Auto trans. The doors work perfect and the last time I looked there was no Rust LOL. The Bumpers are painted gray but we can get them chromed.

I bought all race weight parts for the Demon from Glasstek. One piece nose, hood, doors, Decklid, Rear bumper , and Dash. All came in one crate. Very nice parts ,Body lines are crisp. Molded in bumper and grille are perfect.

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badass!
 
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