Starter choices

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Uncle Bob

Uncle Bob

Shiny paint causes stress.
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The starter in my BB Duster recently failed. It was an XS torque starter, and I don't see any reason to pay big money to replace that so I turned to RockAuto.

I just made up a model year to find a starter. Last night I chose a 1995 Ram 1500 5.9L, and I found new starters ranging from $70 to $107. Today I chose a 99 Dakota 5.9L and I found new starters ranging from $91 to $147. All the part numbers are different.

I thought one mini starter was the same used for all models but I guess that is wrong. I don't see a lot of difference from the website photos but I know those aren't accurate. For example there are a couple that have a photo of a GM-style starter.

Anyway, I wondered if one model year would be improved over another or something?
 
They're probably the same starter, but with different electrical connections. Most of the time, you can just unbolt all the unnecessary plastic connectors to minimize the size and clutter.
 
I would not buy a mail order starter unless someone "Mopar" like Mancini, etc. My understanding is that these mini starters have at least 3 manufacturers, and on B/RB engines CAN have some interference
Some mini starters can be "clocked" (the motor housing) and some not
Some have different electrical terminals, and some have an removeable electrical adapter that helps to alleviate interference.

I've even read that some have done "some block grinding" to clear a boss.

I would go down to whatever, NAPA, Oh'Reallys, etc and get a physical starter to at least try and go from there.
 
67Dart273 said:
I would go down to whatever, NAPA, Oh'Reallys, etc and get a physical starter to at least try and go from there.
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I've kind of convinced myself of that already. It costs a little bit more but it'll be a lot less hassle if it doesn't work.

I read a comment on Summit's site last night about the Mopar branded starter needing some grinding to work.
 
mopowers said:
They're probably the same starter, but with different electrical connections. Most of the time, you can just unbolt all the unnecessary plastic connectors to minimize the size and clutter.
Click to expand...

That's what it looks like. The odd part is that at Autozone the one with the adapter is cheaper than the one without. My local store has them both in stock so I'll just ask them to pull both and compare them.
 
hotrod swinger said:
Would you consider having your starter repaired/rebuilt by a local shop?
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If there was a local shop that could do it in a couple of days, sure. I don't know if parts for a "Powermaster XS Torque" starter are off the shelf things though. It doesn't even have a real "snout" on it. AFAICT it was expensive when new so if I could get it rebuilt I probably should instead of just tossing it on the scrap pile.

I'm also considering trying to get the mini starter off my road runner that is going to restoration soon and won't be needing it. I don't remember how much hassle it was to install that one but if I can find a gap where it will come out that might not be a bad idea.
 
I would just run over to the nearest wrecking yard to get one. At most, you could pull the stamped plate off and sand down the contacts a bit on the copper lugs. They even sell replacement lugs for cheap if needed. There's nothing to these little starters.
 
mopowers said:
I would just run over to the nearest wrecking yard to get one. At most, you could pull the stamped plate off and sand down the contacts a bit on the copper lugs. They even sell replacement lugs for cheap if needed. There's nothing to these little starters.
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Once a local rebuilder was mentioned I remembered we used to open starters up and scrape the commutator to get them going again.

This one will make about a half turn every now and again, then go back to just giving one CLICK. I get the same behavior with it off the car. I may pull that stamped plate off to see if there's anything obviously ugly inside there. The rubber protector over the external wire that connects the solenoid to the starter motor was worn out and torn up though so if I were able to get it going again it would need that replaced before I could bolt it on the engine.

FWIW it looks like a Powermaster 9513, although I don't remember noticing that it had an adjustable mount. It's an older one before they swapped the connectors around.
 
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If you want an engine that cranks quickly for an instant start, you need a 3 hp starter. Some factory starters were only 1 hp. That hp rating is the power that the starter can produce. Obviously a low HP starter is going to struggle with a high compression big engine. Take no notice of tq ratings for starters, use HP.
The MSD dyna Force is 3.4 hp. Not cheap, but you only buy it once...Tilton also have 3 + hp starters & I imagine so would Power Master.
 
There are at least two versions of the later mini starter, maybe more. Some people are finding that with some applications the new mini starters do not engage far enough to catch the ring gear. Either the starter completely freewheels, or barely scrapes the ring gear. My friend Matt, had a 68 D100, 318, 727 stone stock original truck. Starter went bad. We tried FOUR new mini starters from the local O'Reilly and none of them would even touch the ring gear. We finally gave up and I gave him an old used big Chrysler starter I had and it worked fine. So be forewarned. There are different ones. The good old big Chrysler starters worked for fifty plus years. I stick with those now.
 
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