Who's our resident outboard motor guy?
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diymirage
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Daves69
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Lots of "traffic" here...............
Johnson & Evinrude Outboards | Boating Forum - iboats Boating Forums
Johnson & Evinrude Outboards | Boating Forum - iboats Boating Forums
Ok home now. Can't believe I couldn't find a single damn part for an Evinrude motor in the area I have been in the last 4 days. They have only been around what... Forever? I was referred to the same place by 4-5 local places and they used to be an Evinrude dealer ........ Why do they have signs galore and window banners for Evinrude/Johnson????
We did find plugs at an o'wrongleys In the area.
That guy referred me to some place nearly 40 miles away.
My 1st thought was an ignition coil flaking out when it got hot so I was gonna try one while we had the boat still in the water. But Napa was our most likely shot and that was "2 days out" which would be tomorrow.
Tomorrow I'll be back at work!
The 1st piece of hard evidence was a fouled out plug on the bottom cylinder.
We did find plugs at an o'wrongleys In the area.
That guy referred me to some place nearly 40 miles away.
My 1st thought was an ignition coil flaking out when it got hot so I was gonna try one while we had the boat still in the water. But Napa was our most likely shot and that was "2 days out" which would be tomorrow.
Tomorrow I'll be back at work!
The 1st piece of hard evidence was a fouled out plug on the bottom cylinder.
What it's doing, it will rin at 2000-2500 rpm all day long and not miss a beat. But open it up from there and after 10-15 minutes it starts popping, farting, misfiring and an alarm sounds which I couldn't determine what was causing it to alarm, what was wired to that.
Let it sit 10-15 minutes and fire it up and takes right off, runs great. If kept below about 2750 rpm it won't act up at all. But once it does while running higher speed then it starts it's fit at any rpm.
Wait til you can turn the key on and not have the alarm and all is good again. If not taken above 2750 it will run happily for hours. As soon as it's taken above that the trouble starts and once it does sometimes I can cut it down below 2750 and stay running just fine/ other times if it's had it's fits, gotta wait for it to cool down before it will run at all . I'm pretty sure it's electrical not fuel related.
The VRO is bypassed, gas + oil is mixed manually like any older outboard. Fuel pump is pretty new.
Those plugs that were in it when we got to the lake were brand new and the bottom one fouled out within 1/2 a tank of fuel.(about 6-7 gallons worth of run time) the boats owner and my son went to town that night and found plugs for it at the o'wrongleys.
They didn't have champions so they got ngk's.
We installed them and took it out and ran it at all speeds for around 15 minutes and it ran great. Thought we had it fixed. Yesterday we were out with it damneer all day and I was out back riding on a tube and it raised it's fits after about 20 minutes of 3/4 to full throttle. I pulled myself up to the boat by hand over hand pulling on the tow rope and pulled the new plugs out while I was sitting in the tube, in 30 feet deep water. They looked fine, none fouled. My son's father in law (boat's owner) bought all the plugs that o'wrongleys had in stock which was 4 qty.
We put all 3 in on shore the night before and put it in for the above mentioned test run.
But, in 30'of water and it acted up again, I was expecting to find that bottom plug fouled again, he was on the boat, ready to hand me that 4th plug to thread in. I didn't since it wasn't fouled out at the time.
In the time I spent pulling out the plugs in the water, eyeballing them, putting them back in, and the engine cover back on, we were able to fire it right up and it ran great again/ again for ~15-20 minutes.
Every other time besides that time I pulled the plugs on it in the water we had to sit 15-20 minutes for (whatever) to cool so it wouldn't alarm as soon as key was switched to "run". Seems like that time it acted up and I pulled the plugs it was a shorter wait til it would cooperate again.
My thoughts were the coil which fired that cylinder that initially fouled out being bad, and I was wanting to replace "that" coil first.
Let it sit 10-15 minutes and fire it up and takes right off, runs great. If kept below about 2750 rpm it won't act up at all. But once it does while running higher speed then it starts it's fit at any rpm.
Wait til you can turn the key on and not have the alarm and all is good again. If not taken above 2750 it will run happily for hours. As soon as it's taken above that the trouble starts and once it does sometimes I can cut it down below 2750 and stay running just fine/ other times if it's had it's fits, gotta wait for it to cool down before it will run at all . I'm pretty sure it's electrical not fuel related.
The VRO is bypassed, gas + oil is mixed manually like any older outboard. Fuel pump is pretty new.
Those plugs that were in it when we got to the lake were brand new and the bottom one fouled out within 1/2 a tank of fuel.(about 6-7 gallons worth of run time) the boats owner and my son went to town that night and found plugs for it at the o'wrongleys.
They didn't have champions so they got ngk's.
We installed them and took it out and ran it at all speeds for around 15 minutes and it ran great. Thought we had it fixed. Yesterday we were out with it damneer all day and I was out back riding on a tube and it raised it's fits after about 20 minutes of 3/4 to full throttle. I pulled myself up to the boat by hand over hand pulling on the tow rope and pulled the new plugs out while I was sitting in the tube, in 30 feet deep water. They looked fine, none fouled. My son's father in law (boat's owner) bought all the plugs that o'wrongleys had in stock which was 4 qty.
We put all 3 in on shore the night before and put it in for the above mentioned test run.
But, in 30'of water and it acted up again, I was expecting to find that bottom plug fouled again, he was on the boat, ready to hand me that 4th plug to thread in. I didn't since it wasn't fouled out at the time.
In the time I spent pulling out the plugs in the water, eyeballing them, putting them back in, and the engine cover back on, we were able to fire it right up and it ran great again/ again for ~15-20 minutes.
Every other time besides that time I pulled the plugs on it in the water we had to sit 15-20 minutes for (whatever) to cool so it wouldn't alarm as soon as key was switched to "run". Seems like that time it acted up and I pulled the plugs it was a shorter wait til it would cooperate again.
My thoughts were the coil which fired that cylinder that initially fouled out being bad, and I was wanting to replace "that" coil first.
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is it pumping the proper amount of water . sounds like it's running hot and going into limp mode .
Oh yeah. The 1st thing I looked at/ and several times at that. Plenty coming out the telltale squirter. And like immediately upon startup.
While I was out behind the boat on the tube I looked at that several times.
Would make sense though that they would rig an alarm on that system, though. None of the older models I have experience with ever had that.
He did say that he has recently had a new water pump put on. And also along my line of thought about being "heat related"
Sometimes when he'd hit the key it would alarm on startup and the alarm would quit within 20-30 seconds or less and it would run fine for a while. But usually if we turned it to "run" and it was still "alarming" we never even tried to crank it until we could turn the key and have it quiet at "key on"
I didn't have a compression gauge with me at the campground, but when I was pulling plugs to check for another foul out, there is a crusty residue at the block/head junction.
I had a '79 version of the same motor once, and never had any problems with it. (10 years older than this one) I remember checking into availability and pricing of head gaskets and a few other things back then, and they were pretty cheap. I was thinking about getting one and changing it on this one just because.
The one thing about the one that I had, on the leg in the area where the water pump rides within the housing, mine had had a crack that pushed outward from within in line with the water pump vanes. It had been welded up before I ever owned it and in talking with a guy I knew who worked on outboards all the time (back then) he had said that this was common issue with some of that series of engine.
There's no temp gauge on these that I've ever seen, but it never had any smoke/steam coming from any part of the motor.
Again this would pertain to any problems that would be heat/overheat related but that time I pulled the cover and the plugs for inspection while in the water it seems that the motor took less time to "recover" and work as it should, than any other time when I didn't have the cover off the engine. I did think about having him run with the cover off for a while and see if that changed things at all. But we didn't.
While I was out behind the boat on the tube I looked at that several times.
Would make sense though that they would rig an alarm on that system, though. None of the older models I have experience with ever had that.
He did say that he has recently had a new water pump put on. And also along my line of thought about being "heat related"
Sometimes when he'd hit the key it would alarm on startup and the alarm would quit within 20-30 seconds or less and it would run fine for a while. But usually if we turned it to "run" and it was still "alarming" we never even tried to crank it until we could turn the key and have it quiet at "key on"
I didn't have a compression gauge with me at the campground, but when I was pulling plugs to check for another foul out, there is a crusty residue at the block/head junction.
I had a '79 version of the same motor once, and never had any problems with it. (10 years older than this one) I remember checking into availability and pricing of head gaskets and a few other things back then, and they were pretty cheap. I was thinking about getting one and changing it on this one just because.
The one thing about the one that I had, on the leg in the area where the water pump rides within the housing, mine had had a crack that pushed outward from within in line with the water pump vanes. It had been welded up before I ever owned it and in talking with a guy I knew who worked on outboards all the time (back then) he had said that this was common issue with some of that series of engine.
There's no temp gauge on these that I've ever seen, but it never had any smoke/steam coming from any part of the motor.
Again this would pertain to any problems that would be heat/overheat related but that time I pulled the cover and the plugs for inspection while in the water it seems that the motor took less time to "recover" and work as it should, than any other time when I didn't have the cover off the engine. I did think about having him run with the cover off for a while and see if that changed things at all. But we didn't.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I know nothing of ones that new. I've got some non OEM manuals, let me do some diggin'
From what you say tho, I'd agree maybe a coil. You may not be aware, Johnson closed shop a long time ago, Evinrude in '19? during Covid. Sad.................End of a long run
From what you say tho, I'd agree maybe a coil. You may not be aware, Johnson closed shop a long time ago, Evinrude in '19? during Covid. Sad.................End of a long run
Yeah I just found that out. Shame.
Ive had several outboards, most of them johnny- rudes. But older than this one.
Only ever worked on 1 merc, the 1st few were Elgin's that my dad had when I was a kid. Parts for those were already hard to find in the late 70s.
I've done some googling and everything I'm finding says the thing thinks it's overheating.
Ive had several outboards, most of them johnny- rudes. But older than this one.
Only ever worked on 1 merc, the 1st few were Elgin's that my dad had when I was a kid. Parts for those were already hard to find in the late 70s.
I've done some googling and everything I'm finding says the thing thinks it's overheating.
Inertia
Well-Known Member
When the oil injection is eliminated, and the fuel/oil mix is used, I believe it's recommended you richen up the jets to accommodate the mixture.
They often run hot/lean if you don't, with piston damage the result.
Usually #3. those 3 cyl were a pain.
Pay the price for new injection, or Suzuki it.
Have a friend with a fish camp, he has 2 Mercs remaining, rest are all Suzuki, he loves them.
jmo
They often run hot/lean if you don't, with piston damage the result.
Usually #3. those 3 cyl were a pain.
Pay the price for new injection, or Suzuki it.
Have a friend with a fish camp, he has 2 Mercs remaining, rest are all Suzuki, he loves them.
jmo
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Does that model cooling system have a bypass valve that may be hanging on ya'?
Mastertech Marine Outboard & Stern Drive Repair Parts (maxrules.com)
Outboard Motor Parts Index, Outboardparts.com
Mastertech Marine Outboard & Stern Drive Repair Parts (maxrules.com)
Outboard Motor Parts Index, Outboardparts.com
Inertia
Well-Known Member
If you have a temp gun, shoot the cyl block beside each piston.
You'll likely see a sender, wire attached on#2 cyl wall.
I can't remember what they are supposed to run.
I remember looking thru the sp plug hole, and see damaged piston head #3
You'll likely see a sender, wire attached on#2 cyl wall.
I can't remember what they are supposed to run.
I remember looking thru the sp plug hole, and see damaged piston head #3
65wgn440
Well-Known Member
I had a thermostat problem on a 28 HP of about the same year. Set off alarm and would not start until cooled down.
I'll probably put a thermostat in it "just because" we don't know the history of it beyond a year or so. Along with a few other things just s maintenance. I haven't even looked yet to see where that might be located on this motor. My dad had a 70s 115 Evinrude v4 and I vaguely remember something about that one having 2 thermostats. But that was before I knew anything about them at all besides how much oil to put in 6 gallons of gas
whether it is really overheating or not I found some info on these and yeah it seems that's what it's acting like/ whether it's really overheating or there's just a bad sensor. Have to wait til I can get it in the water again and ck it out. Gonna order the thermostat for it anyway, it's quite cheap.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Some of the posts I've seen advocate a water PRESSURE indicator rather than a temp sender, the theory being that if it has pressure, it's flowing water. Not sure how that works if a stat sticks, maybe "it's" downstream
A few of mine are so old they don't have a stat.
A few of mine are so old they don't have a stat.
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