First time having manual brakes, are mine bad?

Seems to me starting with the change to single piston disc brakes in 73 Mopar added a booster so manual brakes either point to added discs or removed booster... Either way the M/C bore size becomes a question...

You really need to break in the new disc pads properly to avoid glazing. They aren't just "throw them in and go". Yours could be glazed, or a caliper piston could be frozen.

I have two K-H disc A-bodies, both with manual brakes. One has the 1-1/32" and the other has the 15/16" MC. There is a difference in pedal effort, but there isn't a difference in stopping power. Both also have slotted cross-drilled rotors, but that is because I like to take them on winding roads up in the Sierra and Siskiyous. Not really needed for a cruiser. They don't affect normal stops, they just help dissipate heat when you are really hitting the brakes hard over a period of time, like a track day or a 9% grade.
What are the caliper piston diameters? Between the two vehicles there may be a difference in the caliper bores which also then dictates the MC bore change. The brake system balance is a complex issue that includes the ratio between MC and wheel cylinder/caliper bores and pedal ratio to develop the required braking force. The designers need to take into account drivers of 5' and 100# stature to 6'5" and 300# stature. The 5' driver has to be able to reach the pedals and develop enough braking force relatively easily. For the 6'5" 300# driver, pressing on the pedal with enough force is likely not a problem. Squeezing into the seat for them can be the difficulty.