New PST Idler arm

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Nick Mailloux

Nick Mailloux

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I bought a suspension kit from PST for my 73 Dart. The replacement idler arm is different. It's not greasable either which is odd to me. It seems solid bushed and doesn't rotate freely when snugged down, do I just grease both ends and tighten it to zero lash? How are these ones compared original greasable ones I'm more familiar with?
The one they show on their website is the normal version. The one I received looks like the one below. I'll get an actual pic of it tomorrow after work when I'm back in the garage.
View attachment 1715965370

924_FOREIGN PARTS DISTRIBUTORS_K7086_1__ra_p.jpg
 
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I use to set zero lash on my 68 dart and it kept getting loose . I found out through the service manual you tighten 60ft lbs ? Don't quote me on that. It felt wrong like your describing but has been fine. Check your service manual.
 
No idler arm design is supposed to rotate on the bolt "loose." The bolt is supposed to be tight and the bearing is supposed to be "within" the idler.
 
67Dart273 said:
No idler arm design is supposed to rotate on the bolt "loose." The bolt is supposed to be tight and the bearing is supposed to be "within" the idler.
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This was my thoughts exactly. I think the one they sent me may be faulty. I'll add more when I get home today.
 
The photo shows a grease fitting. That usually is the one for the stud end. Is it the stud that won't pivot when tightened down, or, the through bolt end?
 
cudamark said:
The photo shows a grease fitting. That usually is the one for the stud end. Is it the stud that won't pivot when tightened down, or, the through bolt end?
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Bolt through end, the part you bolt to the kmember. Every one that I've ever put in, both ends are greasable, except this one. They normally have two washers and foam rings. This one is an all in one unit, almost looks like a rubber upper control arm bushing.
 
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I took it back off. I put it in a vice and tried to rotate it with channel locks. Doesn't budge. It looks pressed together.

PXL_20220805_015737096.jpg


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if its anything like a Right hand drive one. it has a rubber bush that is pressed in or that you press in. The bush is much like a lower Control arm bush. center bonded to rubber which is bonded to shell

put in idler arm loose.
centre steering
do up to factory spec

the bush flexes as you steer and acts as a steering damper.

if you do it up tight with the steering left or right, you will ruin it

thats the standard set up for a C bracket mount idler at least.
no idea about single sided mount with the captive stud used on earlier cars

does the pst one have urethan bush? they swivel in the shell.....or are supposed to

Dave
 
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PST is a sponsor here. Before you damage it and cannot return it, contact them and make sure you got the right one.
 
There are different designs for your idler arm. The original Chrysler arm 3402846 didn't have any grease fittings. Moog had two types both with the same part number. Here are eBay links for each one. Steering Idler Arm Moog K7086 | eBay This style comes with a bolt and nut with grease fittings on both ends. The following link has the factory type bushing at the k member end without grease fitting and stud end with grease fitting. Steering Idler Arm Moog K7086 | eBay
Aftermarket brands such as trw, mcquay-norris, etc. had similar variations.
 
RustyRatRod said:
PST is a sponsor here. Before you damage it and cannot return it, contact them and make sure you got the right one.
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I'm not worried about returning it lol. I bought the kit like a year ago and am just getting around to finally getting it back together. This style arm and the one I'm used to are both listed on multiple websites for my car.
 
townsend said:
There are different designs for your idler arm. The original Chrysler arm 3402846 didn't have any grease fittings. Moog had two types both with the same part number. Here are eBay links for each one. Steering Idler Arm Moog K7086 | eBay This style comes with a bolt and nut with grease fittings on both ends. The following link has the factory type bushing at the k member end without grease fitting and stud end with grease fitting. Steering Idler Arm Moog K7086 | eBay
Aftermarket brands such as trw, mcquay-norris, etc. had similar variations.
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OE original were rubber or plastic bushings. Many other manufactures at that time used rubber/plastic bushing Idlers also. And they even serviced the bushing itself separately.

Moog offers (offered) a stock replacement type OR a "Problem Solver" improved design that has a metal plain bearing. The Problem Solver ones last longer and are more precise.
 
autoxcuda said:
OE original were rubber or plastic bushings. Many other manufactures at that time used rubber/plastic bushing Idlers also. And they even serviced the bushing itself separately.

Moog offers (offered) a stock replacement type OR a "Problem Solver" improved design that has a metal plain bearing. The Problem Solver ones last longer and are more precise.
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So whats the proper technique for installing the oe, if I torque it down it doesn't move.
 
Nick Mailloux said:
So whats the proper technique for installing the oe, if I torque it down it doesn't move.
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That one looks like a plastic insert. So, the plastic is the plain bearing. And the bearing rotates around the center sleeve or the outer shell.

Just keep torqueing it untill it starts to get some resistance. The upper and lower washers should not be moving. I wonder if it's stuck with the paint dip on it. Like try to break it free.
 
autoxcuda said:
That one looks like a plastic insert. So, the plastic is the plain bearing. And the bearing rotates around the center sleeve or the outer shell.

Just keep torqueing it untill it starts to get some resistance. The upper and lower washers should not be moving. I wonder if it's stuck with the paint dip on it. Like try to break it free.
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It wasn't dipped I gave it a light coat of black spray paint. The sleeve isn't plastic or rubber, it's metal. And it absolutely does not move.
 
Nick Mailloux said:
It wasn't dipped I gave it a light coat of black spray paint. The sleeve isn't plastic or rubber, it's metal. And it absolutely does not move.
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Something in there should be non metallic. There should be a plastic insert in there. I've had a plastic one once like that before. But always use the metal gease-able ones since.

If it's 100% all metal it should be grease-able.

upload_2022-8-5_17-28-52.png
 
autoxcuda said:
Something in there should be non metallic. There should be a plastic insert in there. I've had a plastic one once like that before. But always use the metal gease-able ones since.

If it's 100% all metal it should be grease-able.

View attachment 1715966068
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That little ring may be plastic, I'll check as soon as I'm home. I'm gonna order one of the greasable ones I'm used to. I tried for like an hour, it's locked up tighter than fort Knox and I ain't kiddin yah.
 
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Problem solved! It was bonded rubber in a plastic sleeve. There was no way in hell the arm would ever move, there wasn't enough give in the rubber to deflect if torqued down. I'm ordering the greasable one.
 
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