Weird noise after 4 speed install

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plumkrazee70

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70 Dart was originally an auto, just swapped to a 4 speed.

Hydraulic TOB
RAM steel flywheel
RAM 10.95" 3 finger clutch and PP
Rebuilt A833

I was testing gear operation with the rear end jacked up. As soon as the clutch engaged in any gear (except N) I get this weird clanking noise. It's not consistent tho. I have a hard time figuring out where it's coming from.

Things I observed:
The TOB is kind of noisy, I can hear it spinning (maybe they are supposed to be?)

The rear end pumpkin was moving up and down when the noise happen, but not consistent with the noise. Not sure if the clank is coming from up front and transmitting down to the rear end.

I had a hard time capturing the rear end moving, but the sound is pretty clear. Here is a video.



 
My first guess would be a u-joint that is binding. Although I assume it was fine behind the auto. No mods to the driveshaft?
 
Probably should look into a driveline shop taking a look. Towing to the shop would be my advice
 
My first guess would be a u-joint that is binding. Although I assume it was fine behind the auto. No mods to the driveshaft?

So the drive line is new (not saying that couldn't be it). But no I did not experience this when the automatic was in.
 
Probably should look into a driveline shop taking a look. Towing to the shop would be my advice

I agree. I have not driven it yet. Trying to figure out where the best place to take it to is. My first thought was a transmission shop?
 
Maybe disconnect the driveshaft to see if the noise’s still there?

I am going to see if my dad has another slip yoke. I don't feel comfortable pulling the driveline out and having the output shaft not supported in any way. That would at least eliminate it from the output back.
 
Is there oil in diff? I mean, I forgot gas in mine, and chased **** all over the place, it happens. pull shaft and test again like @swedefish suggested is my vote. narrow it down.
 
I would put a slight drag on the drive line using the brakes or parking brakes, or just give a short drive around the block. Sometimes the drive line "slop" can bounce/twist when it's not loaded....
 
Sounds to me like a "rolling rattling" noise, rather consistent. I am more inclined to think it is tranny. Your TOB should be fully released and not spinning.
 
Are the u-joints phased properly?

The driveline is brand new, there is no miles on it. I just slipped it in the trans and turned the output of the trans until it lined up with the yoke and and bolted her down. So I guess what I am saying is, I am not sure if they are phased?
 
70 Dart was originally an auto, just swapped to a 4 speed.

Hydraulic TOB
RAM steel flywheel
RAM 10.95" 3 finger clutch and PP
Rebuilt A833

I was testing gear operation with the rear end jacked up. As soon as the clutch engaged in any gear (except N) I get this weird clanking noise. It's not consistent tho. I have a hard time figuring out where it's coming from.

Things I observed:
The TOB is kind of noisy, I can hear it spinning (maybe they are supposed to be?)

The rear end pumpkin was moving up and down when the noise happen, but not consistent with the noise. Not sure if the clank is coming from up front and transmitting down to the rear end.

I had a hard time capturing the rear end moving, but the sound is pretty clear. Here is a video.




Put a stethoscope on the bell, trans, trans tail, near yolk on 3rd member.
Shift fork dragging or bent perhaps.
Also....Put it reverse and see what you hear.
Put it in neutral and turn the rear wheels by hand. Engine off.
Then if you can rotate the motor, in gear, at the crank and see if it makes the sound...if when it does, stop and pull the side cover.
 
Sounds to me like a "rolling rattling" noise, rather consistent. I am more inclined to think it is tranny. Your TOB should be fully released and not spinning.

So you are saying that it shouldn't be spinning when the clutch is engaged with the flywheel while in gear, tires moving? Cause I can hear it for sure. Its an Hydraulic TOB and I set the air gap per the instructions with the shims. However, once you push the clutch in the air gap goes away and it doesn't "retract" and gain the air gap it sits right on the 3 fingers. I'll post another video
 
@rklein383 Drivelines NW rules. I have had a dude with a jeep come to me and say the driveline was fuckerred and the shop couldnt do anything but build hima new one. I took it to DLNW and dude said gimme two hours. BAM. Not all shops are created equal. If its not the diff or trans.....get a second opinion on that driveline. ie have a different shop balance it or at least spin it for you.
 
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Interesting. I asked the Driveline guy if I needed to do anything special when I installed it and he said no. Maybe I wasn't clear enough. So I should set the yokes/u joints like this?

Yokes.png
 
Interesting. I asked the Driveline guy if I needed to do anything special when I installed it and he said no. Maybe I wasn't clear enough. So I should set the yokes/u joints like this?

View attachment 1715967675
Since you don’t have a two piece driveshaft, no slip joint in the center, it would only be out of phase if it was welded up incorrectly. Slim chance the shop did that, but is possible.
 
Since you don’t have a two piece driveshaft, no slip joint in the center, it would only be out of phase if it was welded up incorrectly. Slim chance the shop did that, but is possible.

So leave the driveline alone? No phasing required?
 
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