Balancer install?

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Muswagon

Muswagon

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Do you guys use an installer or the incremental 2x4/hammer/bolt route? The second option scares me to death, but no one has an installer in town that will work, even loan a tool is a no go.

Anyway, here is the progress. Basically ready to shoe horn in.

The instructions on the headers say they can be on the engine upon install, so gonna give it a whirl

duster440.jpg
 
I have messed up too many balancers. Buy the correct installer. I think I have only used it twice, but I don't mess them up any longer.
 
Bought some threaded rod, nut and some washers and made an installer, went slick

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Can also “rent” one from the big box auto parts stores….

The that popped up the HF is 95 bucks… I bought one like 3-4 years ago and it was like 25 bucks…
 
Scody21 said:
Can also “rent” one from the big box auto parts stores….

The that popped up the HF is 95 bucks… I bought one like 3-4 years ago and it was like 25 bucks…
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Yeah Man, they got Proud of that Chi Com ****! Some of it seems better though. At that rate, I'll go to the fastener wholesale place......I only have one left to build, and I'm not sure these days what will happen
 
Can't rent one up here with the right thread, they are all for late model/metric at the auto parts places.

I thought about a bearing but figured I would try it first this way.

Largest wrench I have is 1-1/8th but too small for the nut I bought at the bolt supply, so used a large Knipex pliers wrench. Honestly worked super slick

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trapster said:
Do you guys heat it up first ?
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That will ruin the front crank seal. I know some people hone them out to make them fit a little easier. Some of the aftermarket ones fit really tight and there's no need for it. They should be a light press fit, but there's no need for a .005" press fit and I've seen some that tight.
 
2x4 rubber mallet then impact. Done it with I'd guess at least 30 engines never had one single failure of any sort with balancer or threads. But the tool is best if ya got one. Couple smacks with mallet and impact is just quicker and smoother and much easier lol

These ain't no SBC. We have a nice crank bolt unlike a sbc
 
Josh owen said:
2x4 rubber mallet then impact. Done it with I'd guess at least 30 engines never had one single failure of any sort with balancer or threads. But the tool is best if ya got one. Couple smacks with mallet and impact is just quicker and smoother and much easier lol

These ain't no SBC. We have a nice crank bolt unlike a sbc
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I have too, before I knew better. It works, but the thrust bearings on the crankshaft don't appreciate it too much.
 
toolmanmike said:
$70 and that's a puller too. Yes please.
If you install it with a block of wood and a hammer how do you remove it? With a pry bar or a torch? :lol:
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Beats me. As broke as we stay and I'll cough up 70 bucks for a good tool any day.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Beats me. As broke as we stay and I'll cough up 70 bucks for a good tool any day.
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:thumbsup: Got ya there. I used to sell the good stuff so you know how I feel about it. I have regrets for not keeping more tools off my truck when I retired. :BangHead::BangHead:
 
toolmanmike said:
:thumbsup: Got ya there. I used to sell the good stuff so you know how I feel about it. I have regrets for not keeping more tools off my truck when I retired. :BangHead::BangHead:
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I love the high quality stuff, don't get me wrong, but the chinkesium stuff can work good, if you treat it gently. I cannot count how many times I've used that tool. Slow and steady and NO air. I wouldn't use air on a Snap On brand, though.
 
Welp I have one in tool box I never use I'll stick to the wood and hammer method unless it's on a GM then the tool is nice as SBC love to pull threads out. Either way works to get to the same goal. I've personally never had a failure due to the "caveman" method but common sense takes effect using that method so have some or you will have carnage
 
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