Stabbing engine and trans?

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Muswagon

Muswagon

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Anyone have experience installing 440/727 from the top? I am that close to my install, but I am mostly a one man band so I am a bit scared lol. I would really rather not tear out the K member and install from bottom, but will if I absolutely have to
 
If your are trying to do this by yourself as a one man band & you don't want to take the K member out, I would install the engine from the top side & them install the transmission from below. Probably be a lot safer for you, not to mention engine & transmission & not to mention the front end sheet metal.
 
I've done that several times with the TTI 2" headers and found that this will result in profanities and misc. tools being thrown across the shop :) You'll need a few hands to make the job eaiser. Pro tip, headers need to come in from the bottom with the engine 2/3rds from being placed home. lower slowly until the headers are correctly fit then tighten.

I'll be doing a motor swap in the next month or two, I'll be dropping the K frame on this one. Will lift the car with the engine hoist or buy a 2 post lift.
 
Muswagon said:
Anyone have experience installing 440/727 from the top? I am that close to my install, but I am mostly a one man band so I am a bit scared lol. I would really rather not tear out the K member and install from bottom, but will if I absolutely have to
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You have to get the car pretty high in the air I would say you want the tires to actually be about a solid foot or more up off the ground so that the tail shaft of the transmission does not hit the ground at the angle of which you'll have to stab it.
Good luck.
 
I put a 413/ 727 in a 73 Dart from the top. It was easy, compared to my 340, 8qt pan, power booster having 74 Duster installed from the top. On the 413, inner fenderwell headers were used. If you wanna slam em married, go get a HF load leveler, it be a Massive help... and, if you get everything prepped and ready, see if Ya can grab a Bro, or a Neighbor for a few... also, if Yer crane don't have the reach to get the mill over the core support, it never hurts to bleed the air outta the front tires.... hehehe Some blocks of wood, a floor jack, and maybe an extra chain....
 
If you don't have a leveler you can catch the transmission with a floor jack and the front will come down into place on its own as you lower it.
 
Another thing I have done, BUT you HAVE to be careful, is get an extension tube... I have a monster homebuilt shop crane with a 12v ram. Stored outside over 12 years, the motor kinda went to crap, I used a regular folding crane, but the arm from the Monster slipped right in the other one, giving me a Lil more reach. YOU MUST BE careful if yer gonna do that, the engine/ trans combo too far out can pull it up, lifting the rear, causing **** to happen fast. Another reason for a hand, it's "Handy" for them to hop on the back, really fast! And yes, I have drilled my own holes, and moved the bolts in the arms to extend em.... what ever Ya do, don't get in TO MUCH of a hurry. 2 guys, some brews, and food does wonders for help, 'specially if they are gear heads that dig Mopar Meanness
 
Thanks for starting this thread, I’m about to swap a 383 in a 74 Swinger with the 727 attached. Lots of good tips here.
 
Nirvana said:
Thanks for starting this thread, I’m about to swap a 383 in a 74 Swinger with the 727 attached. Lots of good tips here.
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Some of us ain't got much brains.... lol EVERYTHING I've done, has been in a driveway, ripped asphalt, or the dirt, in TampaBay. And it ain't NEVER wintertime here.
 
I just did mine by myself from the bottom everything together engine transmission headers on..I don't think I would ever do it any other way ever again!! I'm sure others will agree, it's by far the easiest and best way to do it especially by yourself with no help.
 
Hallzy said:
I just did mine by myself from the bottom everything together engine transmission headers on..I don't think I would ever do it any other way ever again!! I'm sure others will agree, it's by far the easiest and best way to do it especially by yourself with no help.
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Personally, I've NEVER had the Privilege of doing it that way. Seems like you would need a really smooth, flat slab. I checked out some.stuff posted here, where they did it w/ a crane and a Lil floor jack and it "just follows along, like a trolly" in NOT Doubtful of that, or You, one bit.... maybe one day I'll get a chance
 
Don't try to lower it much at all at the time. Once over the engine bay, maybe an inch at the time. Slowly and carefully. You're dealing with enough weigh to kill somebody.
 
I have a maxxjaxx lift and a load leveler for my engine crane so based on what I am reading here, I will lift it up and stab 'er in. I will be careful! I can easily move the car up and down myself quickly.

I have Tri Y headers, says I can install them on the engine, so I am going to give it a try that way.

So, use leveler to keep **** straight as it goes down, inch at a time.

At some point crawl under and put on the crossmember loosely to support trans.

Rightly or wrongly I bought a universal steel braided hose kit for trans lines. It is -6 AN both sides, came with correct fittings for my rad (mine has 1/4 npt to -6an), but had to grab a couple of 1/8th to -6an for the trans itself. Hopefully it installs well. Also went with Lokar pressure cable (I won't dare call it a kickdown ;) ). Trying to simplify stuff where I can with so much factory stuff missing
 
on my 68 valiant i put the trans in first, bolted it's crossmember in place and held it up with a floor jack and a block of wood under the pan. then it was easy to lower the 383 in and bolt it to the bellhousing. i was working on my own.
ps i had power steering too and the schumacher headers fitted good.
 
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I generally do all of the work on my own, just go slow and make sure you check clearance frequently. It sounds like you have much of the same equipment as I do. Too bad I don't still live there, I would gladly take the time to give you a hand.
 
Especially by yourself, if you're not going to do it from the bottom, I'd get the trans positioned under the car on a jack with the crossmember bolted to it (but not to the car). Lower the engine in a little at a time, shuffling the headers as needed. Then when engine is close, roll trans forward and attach to engine. Now the whole unit is supported in front by the crane and the back by the jack. Raise back of trans to attach crossmember. Settle engine on mounts and done! Well then bolt up headers which is no fun....

As someone mentioned, lower the engine in SLOWLY!!
 
I've done it both ways several times.
Putting it in from the bottom has a lot of advantages, but from the top is okay if you are careful and have the front of the car high enough.
One thing to consider is that installing the engine and tranny bolted together from the top is best done with two people and a blanket wrapping the unit so you don't scratch the paint and GO SLOW.
Also, the end of the tranny must be capped so the fluid doesn't drain out and make a mess.
I always used an old yoke or a cap, an old spray bomb cap duct taped to the end of the tail housing works good with a rag taped to it.
If you do install from the bottom, make sure you count the turns that the torsion bar adjusters are in so you can return them to the proper place after the installation.
And if after you back off the torsion bar adjustment bolts, and the torsion bars come out with no issues, you're golden!
I use an old pair of vice grips with a thin piece of pipe welded to the inside grip area to clamp on them (so it doesn't score the torsion bars) and drive them towards the rear of the car until they are out.
Installing the engine/trans combo is best from the bottom, but stabbing it in from the top is very do-able as well.
I hope this helps...
 
Do it from the bottom. It's a way of life. It only involves 8 more fasteners and you are probably replacing the torsion bars any way, right?

The money you save in back pain meds will offset the extra work. Pro tip: drill wee holes and spray penetrant on the k frame bolts from the thread side.

Edit: nine fasteners.
 
I installed the 440 / 727 combo into my '67 Fastback by myself. Hood off the car, and i used my Harbor Freight Gantry Crane instead of an engine puller. Only took me about 20 minutes to get it sitting in the engine bay. I have fenderwell headers - so was able to install those afterwards.
 
Installed and driving down the road in 3-4 hours.
 
I installed a 440 with the trans attached in my 72 dart. Hood off, back of car as high as I could get it. lowered the combo in and slowly brought the combo down, then brought the back down slowly. Alternated both. was the easiest install. used Shumacher headers and pulled the steering column out to clear the headers. Piece of cake. Good luck!
 
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