Eastwood Flaring Tool Issue with Cupro-Nickel

I'm having issues getting good double flares using the Eastwood turret flaring tool with 3/16 cupro-nickel brake line. It's a two stage process, first form a bubble flare and second op creates the double flange. I've done them with this tool in the past with steel line but I've having a hell of a time getting a round result now. After the first op forming the bubble flare, the result is eliptical/oval when you look at it head on and on the backside which should be 45 degrees has a goofy step in it. The second op seems to create the double flange but the backside the nut seats on has a goofy crease. I've tried everything and talked to their tech support and they've never heard of an issue. I'm suspecting the material, which came from Amazon but am looking for feedback if anyone else has run into this. I think they will seal, but the goofy shape on the backside gives me pause.
Some pics from a test part. First two show after OP1 and second two after Op2.


Link to tool
https://www.eastwood.com/profession...ickedid=593608187896&wickedsource=google&wv=4

Weird. I would suspect the material as well, especially if you’ve flared with those die’s before without this issue.

I’ve used my Eastwood flaring tool to do everything from 3/16” to 3/8” in both stainless and regular steel line. I get the tubing from Summit.

The only “trick” I’ve used, especially with the larger lines, is to put a little anti-seize on the tubing. It makes for cleaner, more uniform flares with the larger tubing and harder materials.

Maybe try having less line extended past die on first process. That being said that material from my experience is soft and it could be just distorting when the die puts pressure on it at the start of the forming process, kind of forcing it back into die until it starts to fold. Just a guess. Maybe try some oil on mandrel.

It's too soft for those tools, I've had similar issues. I ended up using compression fittings when I tried to use it.
As dubob said, shorten the amount of line hanging out, see if it improves. That will reduce the tendency to buckle.
The upside is, because it is softer, it doesn't have to be perfect, it will conform better than steel.

72bluNblu said:

The only “trick” I’ve used, especially with the larger lines, is to put a little anti-seize on the tubing. It makes for cleaner, more uniform flares with the larger tubing and harder materials.

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I've tried brake fluid, wheel bearing grease, anti-seize, and spit for lubrication and nothing changes. I'm suspecting the material hardness too. I did some 5/16" cupro fuel lines and made it work and I did a 3/16" steel brake line on my BMW before I sold it, so I think the dies are OK. They look like they are sintered or molded so they are probably all the same from part to part.

jos51700 said:

It's too soft for those tools, I've had similar issues. I ended up using compression fittings when I tried to use it.

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Good to know I'm not going crazy. Thanks for feedback. I'll see if I can make it work and if not I'll either buy the OEM lines or use steel. This is on my son's truck so the parts are available but a lot more expensive than making them from bulk stock.

I do almost everything out of stainless now, or at least the stainless alloy that Summit sells (it’s a little softer and easier to bend than traditional stainless). I figure if I’m going to put in the work to make the lines I’d prefer to only do it once.

I have the same tool and had no issues flaring copper nickel line. I bet you have cheap tubing that has too much copper in it.

Car Nut said:

View attachment 1715968141

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LMAO. Is there anything worse than that?