Weird noise after 4 speed install

MAP is an absolute pressure, lower it reads means more vacuum.
I think the values are set at 45kpa and 98 or 100kpa. The 45kpa values are for cruise, 98 or 100 are WOT. It may even be labeled as WOT, I forget.

I have my idle at 24, 1100rpm 45kpa is 22 (makes it easier to feather the clutch), 1100rpm at 98kpa (WOT) is also 22. All the rest (3k and 6k I think) are 34 at WOT and 50 at 45kpa.

In the breakpoints menu (under pro tuning) you can change the cruise kpa (and also the low, mid, and high rpm), but I've found it doesn't really need it, even with a larger cam.

The higher advance at cruise helps lean out the cruise afr, which I run near 15. Idle afr is 14.5 to 15.2. I've found fine tuning the idle in 0.1 increments to be super important. I do a sweep from 14.2 to 16 in 0.1 increments every time I change idle timing. It's the only way to find the sweet spot each time. Also, keep checking those plugs as you do. By ear isn't 100%!

I've found that in general, more idle timing with a leaner mix will idle cooler and smoother and less stink. Less timing takes more fuel (lower afr) and a readjustment of the IAC steps.

From there, there's a million other settings to help driveability. Decel open IAC is super important with a 4spd. Too low, it'll be jerky as you tip in and out at cruise, too high it won't coast down when you take your foot out of it. If your timing is too high at WOT and low rpm, it'll be jerky or stumble or even stall easier. I've found a big pump shot and dipping the timing 2-3 degrees below idle timing helps make more torque and less apt to stall.