ammeter blowing fuses/ getting hot

hello this is clay posey from out in South Carolina I am in the us navy and don't have much time on my hands but I was wondering if you could offer me some help or point me in the right direction. everything on the instrument panel disconnected it will still pop a fuse up to 30A when I hook up the positive and negative to the ammeter. positive is ran directly from starter relay to the ammeter with only a inline fuse in the way.
Ammeter in instrument cluster short-circuit

Looks like you found at least one short in your other thread begun on Saturday.

Here's what's going on:
The ammeter is a part of the battery power feed. There are two different wire colors used to insure the ammeter reads the correct direction.
When the wires are connected, black is hot, just like the red is hot.
As you discovered, the black wire is connected to the MAIN JUNCTION. This is a WELDED SPLICE.
Everything connected to the welded splice is hot.
The main junction joins the two power supplies (batery and alternator) to the the main feeds as shown in the drawing below.
Not everything is fed through the fusebox.
With the key off, there should still be power at the fuses for the dome light, brake lights, tailights. There should also be power for the headlights (no fuse - circuit breaker inside the headlight switch).
The fusible link is a last ditch protection measure against battery shorting to ground.
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One more big clue and caution.
The ammeter shows current flowing in or out of the battery. In other words battery charging and discharging.
Its another useful tool.
Its calibrated roughly 40 amps to 40 amps.
Anything close to 40 amps either way is DANGER DANGER