Dash Paint

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nodemon

nodemon

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Ok...so I just painted my metal dash frame, 72 Demon. I don't know if it's just me, but something just seems off. I used SEM TRIM BLACK, which I read many recommendations for. It's a matte black, but looks ultra matte or too flat...Again, it could just be me. I'm a perfectionist to a fault, because I'm far from perfect and just don't have the skill set to be perfect. Also, there are a couple spots that appear more glossy..? Can you wet sand a matte finish to remove some problem areas..? I'm going to paint the VIN plate in a satin or gloss.
Thanks in advance..!
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It does look quite a bit flatter than it should. Here's how the dash in my 66 turned out using SEM trim black. It's more of a satin than a matte finish, and certainly has more sheen than what you ended up with. I don't mean to sound critical, but did you remember to shake the can thoroughly? Was it an old can? New? What were the weather conditions when you sprayed it? Maybe that was a factor. I'd just wait for it to fully cure, scuff it with some scotch-bright and re-spray it.

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I used the same SEM trim black on my radiator support on my 68 Dart. As you can see, it has the same sheen

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mopowers said:
It does look quite a bit flatter than it should. Here's how the dash in my 66 turned out using SEM trim black. It's more of a satin than a matte finish, and certainly has more sheen than what you ended up with. I don't mean to sound critical, but did you remember to shake the can thoroughly? Was it an old can? New? What were the weather conditions when you sprayed it? Maybe that was a factor. I'd just wait for it to fully cure, scuff it with some scotch-bright and re-spray it.

View attachment 1715965791

I used the same SEM trim black on my radiator support on my 68 Dart. As you can see, it has the same sheen

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I definitely shook the cans enough...and it's new paint....well, new to me. Guess they could have sat on the store shelf for some time. It's been 48 hours or so, so it should be fully cured. Only weather condition worth noting, and not sure it would make the paint "dull", but it's been hot and humid. Painted at night though. It's almost like the more glossy area I circled in the one picture is the finish I thought it would be. When I sanded there were a few areas that were bare metal. I cleaned thoroughly with soapy water, then foaming glass cleaner and finally with alcohol. I then sprayed SEM etch primer, 2 light coats.. Then SEM high build primer, 3 coats with the recommended flash time between coats. Wet sanded with 400. Cleaned again then 3 top coats of the SEM trim black. Not the best lighting conditions, so maybe some of it's just uneven coverage, although I concentrated on doing a good job with that. I don't know, maybe just my inexperience is showing.. This is my first time really painting something..
 
Once the windshield is installed, you will be the only person that will see it. Yes you can sand it and it will look like it is sanded. You need to have consistency in your paint coats. It needs to look wet with overlapping coats. It shouldnt look flat while painting. Sand it and reshoot it if it bothers you. One good wet coat should suffice.
 
Bodyperson said:
Once the windshield is installed, you will be the only person that will see it. Yes you can sand it and it will look like it is sanded. You need to have consistency in your paint coats. It needs to look wet with overlapping coats. It shouldnt look flat while painting. Sand it and reshoot it if it bothers you. One good wet coat should suffice.
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Thanks for the response..
Sand it with 400..? Wet or dry...?
 
Yeah I agree with the above advice. Probably shot it a bit dry so it went on like sandpaper. Wet overlapping coats and it should look good. Where it was a little shiny is probably where you put it on wet enough...meaning that is probably how it should have all looked.
 
I painted a dash piece with the SEMS Trim Black and it turned out fine, nice black semi gloss.
Months later, I painted a dash piece and it turned out a really flat black.
I contacted SEMS Tech Line and was told that humidity will have an effect on the paint finish and very high humidity will cause it to dry to a very flat finish.
Sure enough the part that dried to a nice semi gloss was painted in the Indiana Spring weather, cool dry air.
The part that dried to a very flat finish was painted on a hot humid Indiana Summer day.
 
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Chrysler used two different finishes on dashes. They used a matte on the top where the defrost vents are, to cut glare down and then gloss on the face of the dash. I would leave the top flat if it was mine.
 
On my '68 the entire dash is low sheen. I test sprayed 8 cans before I decided on the "correct" low sheen, not "flat", not "semi-gloss" but low sheen.
 
nodemon said:
Then SEM high build primer, 3 coats with the recommended flash time between coats.
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Sounds like you did it right, but maybe didn't flash right. I too agree just sand and repaint a coat or two overlapping now that it's all nice and cured. My 1st thought was humidity but you said the condition was dry ?
 
Kendog 170 said:
Sounds like you did it right, but maybe didn't flash right. I too agree just sand and repaint a coat or two overlapping now that it's all nice and cured. My 1st thought was humidity but you said the condition was dry ?
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Humidity was pretty high. That can cause it to look dull...?
 
When you use auto paint for the dash as in single stage that uses a reducer, the reducer used is per temperature. A reducer for hot weather and fast for cold and all in between. You can uses an even slower reducer to change the way they will cure and shine. Also, many models used a suede finish for the dash but all dashes were somewhat flattened to reduce glare.
I too have used good quality aerosols and have had some gone on stupid dry. Like the co. says, probably due to temp, humidity and even the temp of the metal you are shooting.
There are reasons auto paints cost more!!! And they are up more today too like everything!!!!
 
Bodyperson said:
Wet or dry doesn’t make a difference as far as grit is concerned. Lightly with 400 and finish with 600 should work.
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Let me ask this... A friend if mine suggested I spray a coat of Matte Clear on it.. He said it will make it pop without worry about glare... Thoughts. ?
 
nodemon said:
Let me ask this... A friend if mine suggested I spray a coat of Matte Clear on it.. He said it will make it pop without worry about glare... Thoughts. ?
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I really cant answer that. You might have some reaction depending on the product. Maybe do a test first. Still gonna need to sand it. Clear would sure be easier to keep clean. Not a bad idea.
 
Bodyperson said:
I really cant answer that. You might have some reaction depending on the product. Maybe do a test first. Still gonna need to sand it. Clear would sure be easier to keep clean. Not a bad idea.
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I test it on my ashtray door.. and let you know how it goes.
 
High humidity will Paint looks cloudy or inconsistent sheen sometimes actually white clouds if real bad. Blushing .
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I'd suggest hopping on a plane with your dash out here to California so you can spray it with low humidity.
 
Bodyperson said:
Once the windshield is installed, you will be the only person that will see it. Yes you can sand it and it will look like it is sanded. You need to have consistency in your paint coats. It needs to look wet with overlapping coats. It shouldnt look flat while painting. Sand it and reshoot it if it bothers you. One good wet coat should suffice.
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Thanks for your advice.. I sanded and re-shot "wet" per your instructions and it turned out pretty nice.. I'm happy with it so it'll have to do. Not messing with it anymore..lol
For the VIN tag, I put a clear coat on it to give it a little gloss and stand out a bit. Thanks again..!
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Kendog 170 said:
I had that same model and color Demon just out of High School .
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Nice..! Got pix..?
Where was that..? Maybe this is it..lol. Never know . Mine is a factory 318, 3spd... 8 3/4 3.23
Bench seat... rubber mat... I'm bought a 4spd for it.. Got a pistol grip to top it off with.. I also bought a year correct bucket interior to replace the bench.
 
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