Some Electrical Help Please...
see switch on the right, point labelled "To Dome Lights 79 and earlier"
belive that, that will be powered all the time due to the highlighted link and the dome light is powerd all the time, so it can come on when the circuit is made by opening the door and hence connecting the circuit to earth at the door jam switch
you need to get switch with the bit i highlighted in red... see below
if you have the other switch then you are feeding the dome light with the side/parking light feed and all kinds of wierd will happen.
that feed on the other switch is probably ON only when the headlights or side lights are on.
first identify the switch you have before worrying about horrible door jam switches and wireing in the A pillars or a fuse box spaghetti nightmare
if you hear hoof fall, clip clop, its usually a horse not a zebra....! don't go zebra hunting just yet.
a horse has fitted the wrong switch surely...... and less likley that a zebra has been doing knitting with your loom.
the switch, all of them, has button ,like a sprung rivet head, in middle of metal side. press it, pull out the pull-switch knob and shaft, give it a yank, it will pop out, and then you can undo the collar. it will be a nice bezel type collar with 4 or 6 raised ribs or a flat face circlip/pin plier removal job, which is the style that is a bit more BASE/poverty pack/rubber floormat plymouth model.
switch should fall off the inner dash and dangle below so you can have a look,
be carefull not to rotate rheostat when the collar is off. the whole lot pivots on the collar threaded insert section on some of these switches and it can fall apart.
switch and hole has a key to get it back in the correct way.
the correct switch may have smooth or castelated ceramic rheostat disc depends how old and who made it.
keep the mounting hardware from the old switch it may the the only useful part depending on your dash trim... the wrong hardware can stop you switching on or off the lights or stops full rotation to the CLICK ON dome light position
this sounds like switch replaced after 1979 and before today, with a 1979 onwards switch that has correct number of pins but wrong allocation for application.
Dave
PS all kinds of wierdness will also happen if the switch is not earthed. so bolt it back in for testing or hold it against the dash box at a screw or unpianted part. That big hunk of metal mounting is metal for a reason other than bolting it in, if its not earthed you will get pathetic dash lights or an eerie glow from stuff that should not be glowing.
see switch on the right, point labelled "To Dome Lights 79 and earlier"
belive that, that will be powered all the time due to the highlighted link and the dome light is powerd all the time, so it can come on when the circuit is made by opening the door and hence connecting the circuit to earth at the door jam switch
you need to get switch with the bit i highlighted in red... see below
if you have the other switch then you are feeding the dome light with the side/parking light feed and all kinds of wierd will happen.
that feed on the other switch is probably ON only when the headlights or side lights are on.
first identify the switch you have before worrying about horrible door jam switches and wireing in the A pillars or a fuse box spaghetti nightmare
if you hear hoof fall, clip clop, its usually a horse not a zebra....! don't go zebra hunting just yet.
a horse has fitted the wrong switch surely...... and less likley that a zebra has been doing knitting with your loom.
the switch, all of them, has button ,like a sprung rivet head, in middle of metal side. press it, pull out the pull-switch knob and shaft, give it a yank, it will pop out, and then you can undo the collar. it will be a nice bezel type collar with 4 or 6 raised ribs or a flat face circlip/pin plier removal job, which is the style that is a bit more BASE/poverty pack/rubber floormat plymouth model.
switch should fall off the inner dash and dangle below so you can have a look,
be carefull not to rotate rheostat when the collar is off. the whole lot pivots on the collar threaded insert section on some of these switches and it can fall apart.
switch and hole has a key to get it back in the correct way.
the correct switch may have smooth or castelated ceramic rheostat disc depends how old and who made it.
keep the mounting hardware from the old switch it may the the only useful part depending on your dash trim... the wrong hardware can stop you switching on or off the lights or stops full rotation to the CLICK ON dome light position
this sounds like switch replaced after 1979 and before today, with a 1979 onwards switch that has correct number of pins but wrong allocation for application.
Dave
PS all kinds of wierdness will also happen if the switch is not earthed. so bolt it back in for testing or hold it against the dash box at a screw or unpianted part. That big hunk of metal mounting is metal for a reason other than bolting it in, if its not earthed you will get pathetic dash lights or an eerie glow from stuff that should not be glowing.
