Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Yes, you have to cut the u-nuts, too. This is with the windshield still installed.
Infamous reversing dash frame screw
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
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Yes, you have to cut the u-nuts, too. This is with the windshield still installed.
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
Gotcha, thanks much!
So I did a trial run to see which way to go. I figured the center one would be the hardest with console, radio and AC diffuser in the way. So I tried to install it with glovebox liner out and defrost vents removed. Pain in the ***, gave up after 20 minutes. Tried over on far drivers side, again a pita. Said screw it and they are going in from the top. Fingers crossed.
Mike if you attach with bolt from bottom the u nut or has to attach to metal dash frame as @clementine posted. The dash when squeezed to cowl of car lays flat in "cutouts", no room at all between car and dash frame. You could tack nuts to very outside of frame, but that's not happening, I just had it powdercoated. Screws are a #10 to match the u nuts.
Mike if you attach with bolt from bottom the u nut or has to attach to metal dash frame as @clementine posted. The dash when squeezed to cowl of car lays flat in "cutouts", no room at all between car and dash frame. You could tack nuts to very outside of frame, but that's not happening, I just had it powdercoated. Screws are a #10 to match the u nuts.
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing that info. I'm going to be replacing my windshield and when that happens I'll be finishing everything underneath including the AC and heater. I don't ever want to see the underside of a dash again if I can help it.
Glad to help. I made an entire new dash harness and it has been quite an adventure. On advice from Jim Lusk I put my console back in just for balancing the dash. With your windshield out you can loosen each pivot bolt, there is 1 each on pass and drive side. Leave them "snug ", then remove 5 from the top. Leave the middle one for the last. Extra hands would help but I did it on my own. Bubble wrapped a 4x4 and laid it across the console. That way when dash tips down, it doesnt tip down too far and drop out(its heavy). And it rests on bottom part of dash and NOT the bezel. You could use extra eyes at this point to watch wires, ducts, cables as you lower it down.
Like you I much prefer looking at the face of the dash as opposed to the bottom side.
Oh and once its lowered you can access a lot of stuff, BUT if you need to double chk your repairs for fitment etc, you can roll the dash back up into position and fasten with a screw or 2 to double check.
Good luck.
Like you I much prefer looking at the face of the dash as opposed to the bottom side.
Oh and once its lowered you can access a lot of stuff, BUT if you need to double chk your repairs for fitment etc, you can roll the dash back up into position and fasten with a screw or 2 to double check.
Good luck.
Scamp Rhonda
Well-Known Member
I never even thought about protecting the dash inside the car like that. I plan on finishing up the whole dash outside of the car and restoring all the original AC components and installing a new windshield. All this information helps a lot. By the way, your dash looks really nice!
I've installed over a thousand windshields on locomotives, so for me that should be easier than wrestling with upside down bolts under the dash, lol.
Thanks, I had an electrical dash "issue" that I couldnt wrap my head around(thick skulled) and I had a spare 67 dash frame so I sent it out for sandblasting and powder coating while I made a harness. It came back looking really nice but there were a few pits. Once I got original dash out I realized the original one was pit free so it was even nicer and I decided to use it. I made a stand out of 2 saw horses I had and modified them with 4x4's. Straps were hung from rafters and held the holes where defrost vents mount.
I actually thought about this after restoring my dash and "sealing" it in with the windshield. In the event someone should buy my car,(so I can build the next one) I'm going to weld some 1/4"-20x1" elevator bolts (flat head ,all thread)to the dash where the bolts go through, remove the speed nuts from the flange and slot those holes the to the inner edge, so the dash frame slides in and is removeable if needed , with flange nuts underneath. and the A-pillar hardware staying the same.
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I may have missed it but I havent seen a reply yet that shows that anyone has done it?(and provided pics). Based on my meager attempt to see what it would be like installing from the bottom, I'm reassembling with screws from the top. As much as I dont ever want to be under the dash again, I dont feel adventurous enough to try and install from underneath.
Great pic Buddy. It’s good to see Dad still cruising.
I may have missed it but I havent seen a reply yet that shows that anyone has done it?(and provided pics). Based on my meager attempt to see what it would be like installing from the bottom, I'm reassembling with screws from the top. As much as I dont ever want to be under the dash again, I dont feel adventurous enough to try and install from underneath.
When and if ,I will and post
When and if ,I will and post
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
I'm not trying to be a smart *** but, why would you want to remove the dash as in why make it where you can remove it with windshield in? Other than taking my car down to bare metal for restoration I cant see where you'd have to remove the dash. The heater box drops out easier than a pickup truck(easiest heater core I've ever done) with the dash in. The radio , steering column pedals all that stuff comes out with dash in.
Not taken as a smartass. In the past trying to do something as simple as changing a dash bulb can be difficult (for me anyway). There are some basically impossible, as well as anything "under dash" related. Our 67 cuda is ac equipped, radio, console. All that stuff is difficult to work around to say the least. While removal of bucket seats, console isnt difficult. It does add to whatever task your tackling.
With dash "tipped down" during this task, the access I have had behind the dash is way better from above and thru windshield then from underneath. Removing the AC heaterbox/heatercore is different then the standard heaterbox.
With dash "tipped down" during this task, the access I have had behind the dash is way better from above and thru windshield then from underneath. Removing the AC heaterbox/heatercore is different then the standard heaterbox.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Hard to win with a second gen Barracuda esp with factory AC there is no room under there to get to anything. While difficult I think most repairs can be done with dash frame in place. With dash fully assembled you can't get to bolts if they go up from the bottom unless instrument cluster and glove box liner is out.
I removed dash frame from my car many years ago, pulled windshield, and put bolts back in from the top. None of the local glass shops in my area would install windshield "in that old car" so I ended up doing that myself too....
flipping the speed nuts over and putting them on the dash frame with bolts coming up from underneath may not be the way to get this done........but are instances where dropping the column and being able to swing the dash out may come in handy....
Instrument cluster removal
Instrument cluster removal
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