Alignment finally done, but ?
Looking at your printout, it looks like you found a good shop/alignment tech who took the time to equalize and set the alignment to as close to the center of the specs as possible. Good alignment was done. Of course we have no idea what condition your car is in . Totally stock ? Aftermarket tires and wheels ? Modified suspension ? Ride height ? These factors all affect the alignment and in some cases just how much adjustment you may have available to the alignment tech.
Mopars use of eccentric bolts to set camber/caster specs limits the ability to set each setting independently. So camber and caster is always a compromise to find the best of both possible using just one means of adjustment.
Since the alignment is set with the car static ( not moving) The suspension is in a neutral position. That means as the vehicle rolls down the road, the road has surface varies with dips and humps, curves etc. The suspension reacts to these changes by rising and compressing, swaying etc. The alignment is in constant flux. By setting the alignment in the center of the specs, you have at least some hope of the alignment staying in spec for more time than an alignment set at the limit of the specs. That almost guarantees that the alignment will be out of spec when you are driving.
In an ideal world we would be driving on roads like the Autobahn in Germany where the road is super flat, made for speed with minimum surface changes.
The toe is also greatly affected by any clearance stack in the tie rods. Cars like Mercedes Benz normally use a tool called a spreader bar. This pushes the front tires apart, simulating the force of the front tires toeing out when going down the road causing inside edge tire wear. Radial tires tend to track straighter than bias ply tires so you should be good.
Any play in the front end will cause all settings to change more when driving.
