Yeah, a lot of members go to some degree of effort to create "how to" etc... That aint me. A lot of what I consider the best or simplest way to do something goes against what someone else has published online, long before me and they get all the traffic (that is how the internet plays.)
Maybe because they have "Engineering" in their title, it has already proved futile try to discount what they suggest (I did play their game for 8 years). You could look at RTE webpages and follow what they advise. Open you fuel gauge and bend some thingy if you want. That method to the madness works too. Ignoring me doesn't bother me.
My plan is happy moparing to all owners. I know how my own rally instrument panel works flawlessly. The three thermal gauges work, amp gauge is now a volts gauge and that works fine also. It should for many years to come.
During that 8 years, not only did I have a fuel gauge exchange program. It snowballed into owners sending me entire inst' panels to mod' to be just like mine, solid state regulator, volts gauge and all. I never heard the 1st complaint. I'm so proud of that. I'm retired today and doing nothing but typing. I'll be here to help you anyway I can.
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If I hadn't been tagged in this thread I wouldn't have posted at all. The folks at real time engineering published info about opening the 3 post gauges to physically disable the internal limiter. Since they are e-body people and dnot know, they did some research. They found what a man named Erinburg or something like that had published on the Imperial website ( He was on about a limiter inside the temp gauge instead of fuel gauge, not that it makes a difference which gauge they put it in). Anyway... Over the past few years I have attempted to explain, It is not necessary to remove a gauge cover and bend something to isolate that mechanical limiter and substitute a solid state regulator. All that you really need to do is 2 steps... Lift the 3 post gauge and cover a slither of metal on its back side with electric tape to isolate it from chassis ground like any 2 post gauge is isolated from chassis ground.
Since the switched 12 volt wire to the limiter in the fuel gauge serves nothing more in the inst' panel (blue with white tracer), back it out of the round harness and route it to whatever solid state regulator mounted anywhere you want. Route the substitute regulators 5 to 6 volt output to anyone of the traces on circuit board that carries that current and you are done. Alas...
There was one owner/member here who tried to blend what I detailed with what he had read online. Rather than move the wire out of the round connector, take the 12 volts away from the fuel gauge, he jumpered from that gauge post. Both mechanical and solid state got 12 volts at switch on. That chit didn't work. His subsiquent posts wadded my panties up. LOL
At that point, I gave up. Bottom line, Good luck with it.
