Electric fans and shroud recommendations
Also it's common knowledge that 2 cores of preferred 1 1/4' thickness is way more efficient than 3 whatever the size cores that Champion uses......again your trying to compare average at best parts with superior quality.
Not common knowledge at all. Tube diameter is only one part of radiator design. Just like number of cores is only one part. If the tubes get too large, they don't efficiently transfer heat across the entire cross section of the tube. Under laminar flow the water "in the middle" isn't contacting the walls of the tube, which is where the heat exchange takes place. But too many cores can be an issue, since the air moving through the radiator is warming as it goes from front to back. The last core sees warmer air, so it can transfer less out.
Without actual data though you can't say a 2 core 1.25" tube radiator cools better than a 3 core .75" tube radiator. Depends on the water flow numbers, air flow numbers, surface area, number of fins, etc. etc.
So no, just because you spent a **** load on a 2 core radiator with big tubes does not mean it actually cools better. The whole "bigger tubes cool better" trope is just an advertising gimmick, without the data it doesn't mean anything.
I will say it right now and you can tell me I was right down the road......DO NOT put any kind of a fan controller on your car.......even the OEM's fan controllers were **** although Mr OEM himself will disagree but keep it simple and reliable....just use a thermal switch and a 2 or 3 position toggle switch depending on preference and call it a day.
Lol. Manual switching an electric fan is the dumbest way to do it. That's race car only BS. Most thermal switches only activate at one temperature, which makes them a poor choice for a two speed fan. The biggest efficiency gain from having an electric fan is only running it when it needs to be run, and optimizing the temperature range so it matches where your engine makes power. The best way to do that is a fan controller. And yeah, all modern cars use a fan controller and pretty much all of them will go 100k miles or more without an issue.
But let's get real, you have a car that spends 99.9% of it's time in the garage or on a trailer. A 2,000 CFM SPAL wouldn't keep my car cool even with half as much horspower as you have, which means you
never drive your car under anything even close to resembling the conditions I drive in. Which makes your set up pretty much useless for anyone that actually
DRIVES. Like I said before, out of this entire thread you have the least capable cooling system.
I mean, you admit this much, which means you probably drive even less than this. So let's see what your car does and doesn't do...
I would get up on the freeway but will admit I wasn't going 75 like everybody else as I didn't like the constant 4k plus rpm's.
Ok, won't go 75 on the freeway...
I don't drive to the track although when I first started racing I would drive 10 miles to meet up some friends that had a trailer and they would tow me.......didn't mind the drive at all before going to the track but was always leary of deer when I was driving home at midnight or later.
Gets trailered to the track
I think most would choose to not put 50 miles one way to work on their very nice or restored Mopar
Never goes more than 50 miles one way
130 miles round trip driving to the track and back?? Props to you for doing that....my main concern for not really wanting to do that is the subsequent damage that comes from being on the highways that long.....rock chips, running over something in the road, accident with huge delays, etc.
130 miles round trip? Nope.
So there you have it folks, if you never go faster than 75, never drive more than 50 miles one way, and trailer everywhere you go then
@'68cuda416 has a really expensive, less efficient cooling system to sell you on.
