Question about my temp. gauge!!

AJ/FormS said
Nobody knows. The factory temp gauge is notoriously slow and not really tied to reality. By the time it tells you the engine is hot, you will know it in other ways, like the steam billowing from under the hood.
Buy an IR gun; it will tell you what you need to know.

BTW;
since we're talking, the thermostat sets the MINIMUM temperature, by CLOSING when the temp is below it's set point. If you have an overheat problem, either the stat is stuck in some position other than open, or you have an efficiency problem.
If it happens at speed, look to a loss of coolant, a lack of circulation, or a plugged up rad.
If it happens while idling in your driveway, look to everything, lol.
Such as;
a missing shroud, a crappy lo-efficiency fan, a slipping belt, a plugged rad, a faulty fan clutch, a really crappy waterpump, or retarded ignition timing. Not to mention a plugged exhaust, but that never happens on our classics..... right?
Your rad when the system is working right , should be able to pull the temp down about 30degrees from inlet to outlet.

AJ/FormS said
Nobody knows. The factory temp gauge is notoriously slow and not really tied to reality. By the time it tells you the engine is hot, you will know it in other ways, like the steam billowing from under the hood.
Buy an IR gun; it will tell you what you need to know.

BTW;
since we're talking, the thermostat sets the MINIMUM temperature, by CLOSING when the temp is below it's set point. If you have an overheat problem, either the stat is stuck in some position other than open, or you have an efficiency problem.
If it happens at speed, look to a loss of coolant, a lack of circulation, or a plugged up rad.
If it happens while idling in your driveway, look to everything, lol.
Such as;
a missing shroud, a crappy lo-efficiency fan, a slipping belt, a plugged rad, a faulty fan clutch, a really crappy waterpump, or retarded ignition timing. Not to mention a plugged exhaust, but that never happens on our classics..... right?
Your rad when the system is working righat , should be able to pull the temp down about 30degrees from inlet to outlet.

Thank you for the info, I have a IF gun,A radiator thermometer and have checked the coolant temp with both at the same time to see which one of my gauges are close to being correct.The radiator is a 3 core fairly new and coolant is moving through it good. I only use distilled water with just enough antifreeze to protect at 20 degrees.I have a aluminum mopar performance Water Pump,A Stant 185 degree thermostat that I checked with a pan of water on the stove and it's good according to my rad thermometer and i f gun.I have 2 14" 2200 rpm electric fans with a flat shroud that is sealed around the rad core, It's pulling a lot of air through the rad.The belt running the water pump is running directly from the crank pulley with a adjustable idler pulley and is not slipping.I have the timing set at 18 degrees BTC, This is where it runs the best and no clattering.I have to run premium or 100 octane AV fuel in it do to the 11>1 dome pistons, Running ND Accel colder plugs in it also.. It has Hooker Comp.fenderwell headers with 3" exhaust with 12" long Magnaflow mufflers and turn out in front of the rear MT et streets.With all of this being said I build race engine's and Tranny's and rear end's when I am not at work.I work for John Deere as a Tractor and small engine tech.I have built for myself over the years a 71 Plymouth Satellite,A 69 GTX,A 70 Roadrunner,A Plymouth Arrow truck that I gutted and put a 440 in it.( That one was a crazy one). And this Duster.. Now back to the original question ,It has only puked out coolant a couple of times if I was running back to back passes at the track, It's never done it on the street.But,In traffic the original temp gauge will creep up to almost center position,And my cheapo secondary temp gauge is reading 220 but I know it's 12 degrees fast.. This is where it's kinda confusing:: When I was checking the coolant temp with my rad thermometer and I f gun they are reading 2 different temps.. When the original gauge is in between the normal and middle position my rad thermometer is reading 186 and my I f gun is reading 174 at the radiator cap opening.My crappy second gauge will be reading 210-220 But like I said, I Know it's not correct.I am reading 176 at the top of the rad and 134 at the bottom of the rad.The rad intake hose will be reading 174 while the upper return hose will be reading 181 just above the thermostat housing and reading 189 at the top of the return hose at the radiator.I just kinda wanted to know if the original gauge is somewhat close to the coolant temperature. I think I am gonna go between my two gauges and call it at that for now.I am gonna order a good secondary gauge so I can figure out if it's really getting to warm or if it's not.You did answer my question about the original gauge and I really appreciate it.That's why I am on your Forum.I can always get a correct answer when I need it!!. Thank you very much for your help and have a good night. I will tune back in once I get the new secondary gauge put in the old girl.