More T5 Swap Information
Might be a silly question...but what makes up for the thickness of the adapter plate?
well you are already up against the fact that the input shaft is too short to engage with the spigot bush in the crank. which means you need a solution for that. and that solution is part of your answer
and if you use a late mustang box like me (longest ford t5 input) its too long to use the roller bearing set up used on a dodge dakota with 318 with no adapter in place. so to basiclaly get the trans adapted to the bell and the corrct position for support you need to work out adpater thickness
And mustang t5i nput is a .608 spigot end on shaft, not .750 like mopar
so i lined it all up, made sure the bell was bolted to the block. laid the lot on its side, so i could look from the bottom, and slid the trans forward until the forward end of the spline on the input shaft aligned with the friction suface of the flywheel. My view was it didn't really need to go any further.... i might be wrong...!
at that point i worked out that the tip of the input would now engage pretty well right into a dakota roller bearing, bashed into the converter register, a position which is the thickness of the flywheel mounting flange + flange offset and a smidge back from the start of the old spigot bush in the crank. So then I measured the gap between the face of the trans and the back of the bell. worked out about 12mm..
so my adpater is 12mm thick.
with hinsight 13 might have been better currently the cone shape at the back end of the input shaft spline COULD interfere with the lip of the drawn cup roller. will just push it further into its holder is need be.
i could do this because i have 2 engines under the bench, i would have been stuck with a car in bits otherwise
I then took out the input shaft. Took it to an engineering shop and got the spigot end sleeved to 0.750, in a material suitable for use in a drawn cup needle roller
and now i can use the dakota roller in its poistion further back, to support the input shaft, and bolt the lot together.
My method could be flawed but in lieu of anything or anyone giving me any other clues it made sense at the time.
i guess i'll find out when i get off my backside and start work again...teenage kids and new (old) house getting in the way.
my chosen late 1999 to 2004 mustang trans is the strogest OEM standard t5 (not Z spec) BUT it has no speedo drive and an akward reverse and 5th gear brake to deal with
it currently has a rear stick world class australian BTR housing on it.
i don't want to cut the car up, so i have 2 tail shaft housings, the other is chevy S10 with a front stick position. BUT its not world class...but it is manual speedo and chevy shifter box size
none World class tail housings won't fit without machining due to the extra stuff on 5th gear on the WC ford T5
so i will try it as above with the rear stick
or use a chevy s10 housing with the front stick and make a new 2 inch by 3 inch hole in tunnel.. (easy to weld up in future)
can't use the ford housing it is mid/rear stick and aligns with torison bar cross member and has electronic speedo
how to fit an early s10 mechanical speedo housing to the mustang world class trans is here in my post on The HAMB. got pictures and everything. buy a kit off ebay for speedo drive gears and bullet adaptor for this one..differs from ford version
Technical - T5 Transmission S10 Tail/extension
too many words.. sorry, but hope it helps
Dave
