Anyone got a match ???
Go back to Del's drawing; i will tell you everything you need to know.Notice that after the power
leaves the Ammeter, it goes to the welded splice, from where it splits into several paths. Ima guessing that one of those Four paths has a short in it, that is triggering the alternator to go into overdrive. So the first thing I would do is to disable the alternator, by disconnecting the green wire from it. This will prevent it from creating electricity. But if it is the source of the short, you still gotta disconnect the big output cable from it. That cable will now have battery voltage on it so you gotta tape it and prevent it from grounding.
Here are some other good candidates for shorting; .
1) the bulkhead connector
2) the ammeter
3) the headlight switch
4) the battery itself may have an internal problem
5) a shorted electro-mechanical regulator
As to #2, between the ammeter and my column support, there is very little clearance. I have accidentally shorted my ammeter to ground when taking out the dashboard. I only ever did that once lol.
As for you dead fuel level gauge, it gets it's power from the same place that your temp gauge does. So if the temp gauge is working, you can bet the fuel gauge is at least getting power. In order for it to indicate, the sender has to be grounded. At the back of the car you will see a funny-looking strap on the fuel line, jumping across the rubber jumper hose. That is your ground path. It assumes that the fuel line is grounded by one or more of the mounting clips. I have seen those rust apart into two pieces, or the fuel line so corroded as to not connect to the strap. This is an easy test. Without this ground or a reasonable facsimile, the gauge will not indicate.
Go back to Del's drawing; i will tell you everything you need to know.Notice that after the power
leaves the Ammeter, it goes to the welded splice, from where it splits into several paths. Ima guessing that one of those Four paths has a short in it, that is triggering the alternator to go into overdrive. So the first thing I would do is to disable the alternator, by disconnecting the green wire from it. This will prevent it from creating electricity. But if it is the source of the short, you still gotta disconnect the big output cable from it. That cable will now have battery voltage on it so you gotta tape it and prevent it from grounding.
Here are some other good candidates for shorting; .
1) the bulkhead connector
2) the ammeter
3) the headlight switch
4) the battery itself may have an internal problem
5) a shorted electro-mechanical regulator
As to #2, between the ammeter and my column support, there is very little clearance. I have accidentally shorted my ammeter to ground when taking out the dashboard. I only ever did that once lol.
As for you dead fuel level gauge, it gets it's power from the same place that your temp gauge does. So if the temp gauge is working, you can bet the fuel gauge is at least getting power. In order for it to indicate, the sender has to be grounded. At the back of the car you will see a funny-looking strap on the fuel line, jumping across the rubber jumper hose. That is your ground path. It assumes that the fuel line is grounded by one or more of the mounting clips. I have seen those rust apart into two pieces, or the fuel line so corroded as to not connect to the strap. This is an easy test. Without this ground or a reasonable facsimile, the gauge will not indicate.
