Anyone got a match ???

Some general, some has already been commented

I'm not seeing where you for certain found the cause of the fuse link burning up in the first place. THOSE ARE darn poor protection. I once had a loaner from a dealer, while my car was in the body shop. A short in the alternator burned up the entire harness from the alternator to the bulkhead AND THEN blew the fuse link.

If the fuse you installed is about 40A and the alternator has more capacity, it is likely to fail. The problem you face is that the original wire itself is not large enough, and the bulkhead connector terminals are not rated for that current, AND the ammeter can become loose and heat up. Visualise the ammeter. On many models the ammeter studs can be "loose" from the "guts" which is the actual shut as well as the electromagnetic element that moves the needle. All of that is sandwiched with insulating washers and wire terminals and washers and nuts and the PLASTIC dash housing on some years, and when that all works loose..........heat, smoke.........

If you have not done so, read the MAD article. If you don't use their method, the article gives an overview on the how and why of the problem.

One thing you SHOULD do is to determine where you are on charging VOLTAGE. Monitor battery voltage AT THE BATTERY with a multimeter. It should run 13.8--14.2 after warmed up. The VR is temp sensitive. If it runs over 15, you have a voltage drop problem that is causing over charge. If it runs much more than that, say, 16 or more, you have a bad VR, a problem in the field wiring, or a grounded brush in the green wire circuit, causing the alternator to "full field" and charge full output