Anyone got a match ???

What you describe does not sound like "the cause." Nothing there (if not shorted to ground) draws enough current to fail the link. In other words the short/ fault may still be lurking.

One disadvantage you have with a 73/ later car when figuring out wiring is that the factory diagrams have no continuity. FOR THAT I suggest "stepping back" to the 2 page aftermarket diagrams from MyMopar, which are free. These are simpler, often leave out options and details, but they are continuous line drawings

ONE THING we all battle with old OEM wiring is:

The main distribuition---mostly outlined in the simplified MAD diagram, is too small
Much of the other wiring is also too small for voltage drop--such as headlight wiring, or even tail/ stop/ turn wiring if you wish to tow a trailer
They are very badly UNDER fused. The igntion and start circuits are not fused.

IT IS VERY POSSIBLE that your fuse link problem was caused by the ignition switch itself, especially since it stuck. It is known that switch contacts internally wear out and "waltz around" inside the switch. It is reasonable to assume that they can also short to the switch body.

The neutral only start is surely an adjustment issue with the linkage

DO YOU HAVE the factory service manual? If not go to MyMopar and download them--free. That year, and several others got there because of some of the guys right here