Anyone got a match ???
Fuel gauge: Treat anything and such as this with an "end to end" attitude. The "path" generally is:
Power from ignition switch to dash cluster PC board harness connector. From connector pin to board trace, power feeds to gauge regulator / limiter/ IVR.
Output of the IVR feeds via board trace to power stud on fuel gauge, through gauge, and out sender stud. Board trace feeds back to a harness connector pin on board---to harness----down to left kick panel connector to tail/ rear harness----sender wire feeds back to tank
Failure can be all along that path and sometimes "more than one."
Does temp gauge work? It is common to IVR. If one gauge works, IVR is likely OK
FAILURE POINTS
Board harness connector pins are "swedged" or rivited to board and work loose/ corrode. Solder them in place after cleaning. Use additional liquid flux DESIGNED FOR electronics, NOT plumbing
IVR connector fingers same deal. They loose ocnnection with board traces. Solder jumpers across
Gauge studs. Loosen /tighten stud nuts a few times to scrub connections and then tighten.
Sender wire goes through tail harness kick panel connector. Check terminals are tight. The end terminal connecting to sender could be bad.
RUN ELECTRICAL TESTS. Here are the basic test resistances and the gauge readings they should give you:
Measure resistance of your sender and compare to the tester diagram. Your gauge should match whatever that is. If not you have a gauge problem. If the sender reading is open, you have a sender problem.
For a VERY quick and dirty check, ground the gauge sender wire. Turn on the key a few seconds, the gauge should peg. Do not leave it powered more than it takes to confirm reading