Overheating 360 new engine

100%

It just seems like there’s a lot of “it has to be this very specific thing or it’s stupid” and that’s not helpful, whether it’s a mechanical fan or a 160° coolant temp or whatever.

I mean, I’m sure Rat Bastid builds some great engines and he’s probably a better tuner than I am, but I can tell you right now that build and that tune won’t work for how I use my car at all.

And I get that I use my car a little differently, I’m guessing there aren’t a ton of people that have a 60 mile one way commute that goes through 3,500 ft of elevation change and put 600+ miles a month on their A-body. Or need their car to start up cold at 28°F and also hot start at 110°F, while running on 91 octane that has a significant blend change for winter/summer.

But that’s what I do, and I changed back to a 195° thermostat after running a 180° because my engine runs better at 195° on the street than it does at 180°. Not because my cooling system and fans couldn’t maintain 180°, but literally because I don’t want my car at 180° when I’m cruising down the freeway because it runs better at 195°. Maybe it doesn’t make the most power there, but it’s a **** load easier to drive.

I would totally tune it differently for a dyno run, but a dyno run is not the same as street use.

What carb are you running? Im betting you have a hot manifold (heat crossover) and a very limited booster. If that’s the case then yes, you NEED the heat to vaporize the fuel. I do NOT build engines with heat in the manifold. EVER. So I account for that.

Like I’ve said, there is more to it than just running the compression up. You have to have a plan and follow it. If you run a low gain booster you need the heat. I don’t do that either. If I do, then 180 is where they run.