Ignition woes

I've gotten a lot of help from Mattax and am waiting for a buddy to come to my house to do what you guys have mentioned.

While I had time, I stripped the cloth off the splice and got battery voltage, 12.4 to 12.6 on all 5 wires as best I could. Then when I turned the ignition switch to 'run,' I got about 9 volts on every wire, which I don't understand.
On the black fuse side I got 0, then 9 when I turned the switch.

Next I measured the resistance under my steering column, (everything I know of 'off') : red battery wire to blue run wire : 0 ohms, after turning the switch.
red battery wire to brown start wire: 0 ohms, after turning the switch to start.

I changed the ignition switch long time ago with Mattax when he explained
I needed a load, instead of hooking up directly to a car battery. With this switch
today I got 1.6 ohms, perhaps reflecting my error in frying it.
Brown start wire at steering column to brown ballast resistor wire at 'start': .6 ohms
Blue run wire steering column to blue ballast resistor wire with key at 'run': .6
ohms.

I know what Mattax said about load and voltage drop, but I just wanted to look at resistance. I did find a rear window defroster had been turned on when Mattax was helping. sorry, I thought a neighbor was running a blower. Getting at the splice made me unloosen wires from being tightly wound over the years. When I hooked everything up, the voltage at the ballast resistor under run was 10, so maybe I'm OK up to that point.