How I solved my 1974 Duster fuel gauge problem.
Just wanted to add another vote for the MeterMatch. Got it hooked up in my 67 Dart and it’s got my gauge reading just how I want it. I set points at E, 1/4, 1/2 and F so that it would be most accurate on the low side.
Here’s a couple photos someone may find helpful down the road. They show a pretty good way to wire it up to a 67/8/9 cluster without hacking into the existing wiring or having it all over the place. This way the MeterMatch can come out with the cluster if you ever need to take the cluster out.
The main thing is this little plastic hat washer that lets you get in the middle of the sender and the gauge. I made this one on a lathe but maybe you can find one. The lower wire (yellow) is to the sender and the upper wire (green) is to the guage. The positive (red) is just a crimp on tab bent 90 degrees and wedged in the regulator plug same as the capacitor. The ground (black) just goes to one of the screws holding the cluster together. No hacking into the existing wiring or modification of any original parts and this can easily be removed if needed.
My MeterMatch ends up just above the fuse panel and can be pulled out to do the programming.
Just wanted to add another vote for the MeterMatch. Got it hooked up in my 67 Dart and it’s got my gauge reading just how I want it. I set points at E, 1/4, 1/2 and F so that it would be most accurate on the low side.
Here’s a couple photos someone may find helpful down the road. They show a pretty good way to wire it up to a 67/8/9 cluster without hacking into the existing wiring or having it all over the place. This way the MeterMatch can come out with the cluster if you ever need to take the cluster out.
The main thing is this little plastic hat washer that lets you get in the middle of the sender and the gauge. I made this one on a lathe but maybe you can find one. The lower wire (yellow) is to the sender and the upper wire (green) is to the guage. The positive (red) is just a crimp on tab bent 90 degrees and wedged in the regulator plug same as the capacitor. The ground (black) just goes to one of the screws holding the cluster together. No hacking into the existing wiring or modification of any original parts and this can easily be removed if needed.
My MeterMatch ends up just above the fuse panel and can be pulled out to do the programming.
