SPC Upper Control Arms (2nd Gen) and Bump Stop Question
Have you talked to @BergmanAutoCraft at all?
It doesn't look like the factory bump stops are in a position to do anything for you at all, which means you're going to have to come up with a solution so that you have an upper bump stop that works to set the suspension location for full extension. That's going to be important for a couple different reasons.
You won't be able to properly adjust the strut rod without having set the range of travel. The strut rods and LCA's are attached at an angle to each other so their ends trace out separate arcs. You can adjust them not to bind over the normal range of travel, but you can't adjust them not to bind over an indefinite range because the arcs diverge.
You're going to have to figure out your ride height, then set your range of suspension travel. Factory cars have about 5.5" of travel between the bump stops. With 1.24" bars you probably won't need that much, and honestly you may not get that much out of the bars because your wheel rate will be so high. But what you'll need to do is determine the ride height, then set the bump stops so that you have about 2.5" of travel at the spindle in each direction.
I had to do something similar on my Duster with the 1.12" bars I run and the lowered ride height I use. I set the ride height where I wanted it, then determined the size of the bump stops to put the final ride height as close to the middle of the range of available travel as I could. The result was a much taller upper bump stop and a very short lower bump stop. The upper bump stop I actually sized to keep the torsion bar adjusting bolt in contact with the adjusting lever at full droop. Really large torsion bars don't twist much with the weight of the car, so the adjustment of height becomes very precise because the range of adjustment is so narrow. Where you might put half a dozen turns on the adjusters with an average size torsion bar to get the car to factory height with the large bars you can go from sitting on the lower bump stop to factory ride height in a turn or two.
This is an older picture of my front suspension from when I installed my Gen I SPC's and QA1 LCA's. You can see that the upper bump stop is raised substantially, and the lower is just a pad. I've actually gone to a taller upper bump stop since then, to keep the torsion bar adjusting bolt from losing tension on the adjusting lever at full droop. With the curve on that upper arm of the Gen II's you may have to move the upper bump stop entirely somewhere else.
Have you talked to @BergmanAutoCraft at all?
It doesn't look like the factory bump stops are in a position to do anything for you at all, which means you're going to have to come up with a solution so that you have an upper bump stop that works to set the suspension location for full extension. That's going to be important for a couple different reasons.
You won't be able to properly adjust the strut rod without having set the range of travel. The strut rods and LCA's are attached at an angle to each other so their ends trace out separate arcs. You can adjust them not to bind over the normal range of travel, but you can't adjust them not to bind over an indefinite range because the arcs diverge.
You're going to have to figure out your ride height, then set your range of suspension travel. Factory cars have about 5.5" of travel between the bump stops. With 1.24" bars you probably won't need that much, and honestly you may not get that much out of the bars because your wheel rate will be so high. But what you'll need to do is determine the ride height, then set the bump stops so that you have about 2.5" of travel at the spindle in each direction.
I had to do something similar on my Duster with the 1.12" bars I run and the lowered ride height I use. I set the ride height where I wanted it, then determined the size of the bump stops to put the final ride height as close to the middle of the range of available travel as I could. The result was a much taller upper bump stop and a very short lower bump stop. The upper bump stop I actually sized to keep the torsion bar adjusting bolt in contact with the adjusting lever at full droop. Really large torsion bars don't twist much with the weight of the car, so the adjustment of height becomes very precise because the range of adjustment is so narrow. Where you might put half a dozen turns on the adjusters with an average size torsion bar to get the car to factory height with the large bars you can go from sitting on the lower bump stop to factory ride height in a turn or two.
This is an older picture of my front suspension from when I installed my Gen I SPC's and QA1 LCA's. You can see that the upper bump stop is raised substantially, and the lower is just a pad. I've actually gone to a taller upper bump stop since then, to keep the torsion bar adjusting bolt from losing tension on the adjusting lever at full droop. With the curve on that upper arm of the Gen II's you may have to move the upper bump stop entirely somewhere else.