I hate electrical

RogerRamRod said
I used these, probably a little different, but you are really looking to make a nice tight connection regardless of its "shape". I also soldered each connector.
Klein Tools Crimping and Cutting Tool for Connectors 1005SEN - The Home Depot
I had a LOT to do because I installed a modern fuse panel and underhood maxi fuse/relay box out of an explorer (IIRC) up under the dash. Every wire in/out of that is on a Molex connector. Alt power, Ignition, headlight & horn wiring go through a "hidden" pass through rather than the bulkhead connection.
Hi & lo beams, ACC & run circuits all get fed through relays rather than their switches, switches are now just low current triggers.
Why? because it's a great idea in theory. Was it needed? probably not to the extent that I took it, but some things will benefit from it. Brighter headlights was the impetus that started the saga.
It was a lot more than I bargained for, & I still need to transcribe my documentation to a proper diagram, but so far everything is powering up as expected. (one at a time, I haven't given it an all at once test yet)

I did almost the same thing as you when I redid my wiring under hood on my 85 D150. I went to the junkyard and got the under hood fuse box from a 90-92 ranger and everything that used to be thru a fusible link is now thru a Maxi fuse.
I had a bulletin from Littelfuse on my old phone I don't think it transferred over to this one when I had to get a new phone. But it told of how the Maxi fuse came to be and that it did so specially to replace fusible links which I absolutely HATE with a passion.i emailed Littelfuse several times back n forth while I was at it.

I hunted all over the place for any kind of reference to equate #of amp rating of a given size (gauge) fusible link to a given fuse rating but wasted lots of time, came up empty. All I did find was the standard color chart that related color to gauge size.
When all was said and done I looked at the gauge size of the parent circuit (before it went to the fusible link) and was able to match up the wire gauge size with a fuse holder and the (same) gauge size wire coming out of it. If my wiring was 10ga it went to a fuse in the new box that was 10 ga. Etc.
And went with whatever rated fuse was already in that slot according to the diagram on the fuse box. I then simply drew up a pic of the fuse box (think high school drafting class) and wrote in my new use for each fuse blank. All crimped soldered and heat shrink coated.
I went to the junkyard and got a (much better) harness off another truck like mine to begin this project, since mine was so badly butchered by the PO I have to wonder how this truck lasted long enough for me to be able to buy it before it would have become a charred ashy mess.....